The Most Major Shows From Paris Fashion Week

Coperni Went to Disneyland

What better place to present a collection celebrating youth, nostalgia and imagination than Disneyland Paris? For Spring 2025, Coperni became the first brand to ever do so, as co-founders Sebastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant remembered characters like Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, the Little Mermaid, Snow White, Cinderella and Maleficent being guides through human emotions like friendship, love, fear, courage and transformation. "Our collection tells a story of ourselves — the princes and princesses, rebellious teenagers, and powerful heroes and villains we all have the capacity to represent," the duo said in the show notes. "It reflects how we feel today, what we wear to dance with friends, scream on roller coasters, attend galas, feel nostalgic, and explore the unknown."

Photos courtesy of Coperni

McQueen's New Banshee

Creative director Seán McGirr presented his second runway for Alexander McQueen at the École des Beaux-Arts with a romantically dark collection. Tailoring and shirting in black-and-white was a common thread throughout the show, as McGirr explored the sketches of Lee McQueen, who also inspired the current designer with his fall 1994 “Banshee” collection, which dived into the world of the mythical female death spirits that the collection was named after. It manifested as shredded silk tops, embroidered lace dresses and sets and climaxed with the finale gown: a gown constructed entirely from silver chains.

Photos courtesy of McQueen

This Is the Saint Laurent Woman

The Saint Laurent woman is instantly recognizable — a women who loves to indulge in darker penchants and has an attraction to danger and pleasure. For Spring 2025 creative director Anthony Vaccarello developed upon clothes that the archetype of that independent woman wears, recalling Yves Saint Laurent’s way of dressing with fluid suits and jackets over blazers. The same woman also appeared in a more feminine skirt-dominated section. And in homage to the its lasting relationships, all of the looks were named after women that have been important to the House at different moments until today.

Photos via Getty Images

Courrèges Interprets the Möbius Strip

Nicolas Di Felice was inspired by the Möbius strip (a one-sided surface with no boundaries that looks like an infinite loop) for his Courrèges Spring 2025 collection. A new construction of a leather cocoon cape from the brand's 1962 "Haute Couture" collection was the starting point, and what was built upon that included neoprene-bonded tailoring, to hybrid, deconstructed jerseys that look like fabric underwater, feathered ear-cuffs, speckled prints on dresses, the latest version of the Holy Bag that's reminiscent of a jellyfish, silk slip-dresses, bias-cut dresses made from deep-blue chiffon and scuba heels. The models once again walked around an installation by Di Felice and scenography director Rémy Brière in collaboration with Finnish artist duo Grönlund-Nisunen: an "Ocean Drum" that recreated the sound of waves. As the show notes said: "Repetition, revolution, renewal."

Photos courtesy of Courrèges

Vaquera Balances Subversion and Wearability

Ten years ago, Vaquera began out of a deep feeling of disappointment with the fashion industry, and its shows and collections were aimed to spark thought and conversation like '80s and '90s designers who used fashion as a medium for artistic self-expression. That still hasn't changed, but the brand has a new confidence with its established DNA and POV, focusing now on wearability and its idea of "New Basics." So for Spring 2025, its idea of subversion was reconsidered by interpreting American sportswear, as well as firsts for the brand with shoes and accessories.

Photos courtesy of Vaquera via BFA

Character Studies With Kiko Kostadinov 

This season, Kiko Kostadinov proposed a cast of characters of women going through the world to places both real and imagined. There is the aviator, for example, in uniform suiting and molded caps and logo badges, the warrior in metallic basket weave and hard shell shapes, the women who loves collecting her memories with stamps and stories and the wanderer in light and airy clothes that are perpetually in motion. "The women we become are a reflection of the places we’ve been," the brand send in the show notes. "The way the past and present clash, how time moves through us, pushes us into a lighter, celestial place. Losing yourself in the world, finding yourself in the clothes."

Photos courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov