The Rising Fashion Stars of Paris

Buzzy brand ALL-IN and intellectual Dover Street Market protégé Torishéju both choose to show only once a year. Others, like Alyssa Marie Groeneveld and Fidan Novruzova opted for a presentation format to unveil their new collections. Previously an NYFW darling, Shan Huq is starting anew, returning to the runway in Paris. Andreas Steiner, the former Prada alumnus who translates Austrian craftsmanship into modern urban silhouettes under the brand Rier, launched an Alpine-inspired sneaker boot together with Salomon at the Broken Arm, which sold out before the week was over. The self-proclaimed "fashion archive for goths," Buried Deep, hosted an intimate shopping experience from a bedroom, attended by runway legend Debra Shaw. Photographer Guen Fiore opened an exhibition that made Instagram's censorship bots blush, and upcoming designer Jules ten Velde pondered the afterlife in his latest collection.

Below, see PAPER's favorite under-the-radar moments from Paris Fashion Week Spring 2025.

ALL-IN

American Benjamin Barron and Norwegian Bror August Vestbrø launched ALL-IN in 2015 as a thematic magazine. They started sourcing items from thrift stores and vintage markets to recontextualize them into their editorials. What began as a publication evolved into a full-fledged brand, and since 2019, the duo has been releasing collections once a year. Today, the brand has cultivated a loyal following, counting Charli XCX, Rihanna and Arca among its fans.

At 9 p.m. on the 40th floor of Tour Montparnasse, the office tower on Paris' Left Bank, ALL-IN unveiled its fifth collection. With the metropolitan lights glittering in the distance and a soundtrack of reworked songs by George Michael, Cyndi Lauper and voice quotes from Sex and the City’s Samantha Jones, the stage was set for Spring 2025, titled "Uptown Girl."

Drawing inspiration from Melanie Griffith’s portrayal of Tess McGill in the classic 1988 film Working Girl, the collection offered a fresh take on '80s aspirational power dressing. The ALL-IN girl is on the rise, yet very much in transition. This was best exemplified by a series of ball gowns that revealed denim and sequin mini shorts at the back. Collaged looks featuring delicate frilly dresses, draped backless shirting, polka dots and suede thigh-high boots comprised a significant portion of the show, merging posh and trashy aesthetics. The opening looks with deconstructed denim jackets were a collaboration with GUESS USA.

Photos courtesy of ALL-IN

Fidan Novruzova

Fidan Novruzova’s recognizable boots, featuring a distinctive square upturned toe, have been inescapable on social media: on Chloë Sevigny, Charli XCX, Caroline Polachek, Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Solange — the list goes on. Even Camille, the most notorious ex-girlfriend from Emily in Paris, stepped out in full Fidan in the recently aired season 4.

The designer has carved out a unique space for herself, creating garments that remix influences from her youth in post-Soviet Moldova and her time studying at London’s Central Saint Martins. Never overtly referential, her pieces are like a refined perfume: one can’t quite pinpoint the individual notes, as they harmoniously transform into something wonderfully new.

After relocating her studio to Paris, the city of chic has been on her mind, specifically the 1920s, with its hedonism and salon-style fashion viewings. Guests were invited to an intimate presentation of mannequins dressed in drop-waist, flapper-inspired t-shirts, leather jackets and loungewear. A new pump style incorporated napkin rings into the uppers, while felt cloche hats and Art Nouveau-esque jewelry were exciting new additions to the brand’s accessory vocabulary.

Photography by Thurstan Redding

Torishéju

The expectations for Torishéju Dumi’s sophomore runway show were high. Last September, she made a particularly strong debut with a little help from stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson in the gilded halls of the Shangri-La Paris. Naomi opened, Paloma Elsesser closed, and Dover Street Market stocked the collection across all its locations.

Dumi’s universe is an intelligent coalescence of historical influences, vivid storytelling and meditations on texture, shape and form. For Spring 2025, her protagonists found themselves aboard a decadent yet sinking ship, not yet fully aware of the seriousness of their perilous situation. The collection opened with a sleek, elongated gown, followed by satin duchesse cropped tailcoats paired with bloomers. Soon after, a hauntingly beautiful sense of decay began to seep into the garments. Shirts came undone, tattered fabrics slipped off the body and a series of bouncy looks inspired by Titanic’s malfunctioning buoyancy vests featured black sheer outer layers stretched to their physical limits by heavy inner layers of white studio off-cuts.

Photography by Torishéju

Shan Huq

Shan Huq was a fixture in the NYC emerging talent landscape between 2015 to 2017. Known for his tongue-in-cheek graphic sweatshirts and IYKYK riffs on the American suburban uniform, he eventually shuttered his namesake brand and made a career segue into the contemporary art world, eventually moving to Paris where he worked at High Art Gallery.

For Spring 2025, he returned to the runway, making a strong case for poetic fragility and outspoken softness. “I find it extremely dynamic to embrace a kind of innocence in the times we are living in,” he said. The show opened with a series of silk jacquard micro-pants paired with V-neck sweaters — an easy, thrown-on look. The knits’ silhouettes were enhanced with subtle shoulder padding on the women’s looks, while the men’s pieces were kept soft. Pajama-style trousers, covered in illustrations of a wacky raccoon and made from the exact same poly-blend fabric used for children’s teddy bears, provided a playful counterbalance to the otherwise prim parade of American Beauty-esque silk nightgowns and American sportswear ensembles.

In this new iteration of his namesake brand, Huq is focused on establishing a sense of maturity and quality. “I’m focused on making great clothes, not the smoke and mirrors of the fashion industry.” Eschewing digital hype, the brand won’t be launching social media or an online shop in the foreseeable future. Instead, the clothes are to be discovered in-store — an approach Huq hopes will lead to slow but steady growth and foster a sincere brand community.

Photography by Shan Huq

"Motherland": A Feminine Exploration of Identity, Friendship, and the Power of the Gaze

On Thursday evening, the main event turned out to be a photography exhibition. "Motherland," a project by Guen Fiore and Nastya Klychkova, drew a large crowd to Galerie John Ferrère, making the street in front of the gallery nearly inaccessible during the opening. In the window, a large-scale image showed model Simona Kust reclining on a polished black leather sofa, wearing a cap emblazoned with "I SUFFER." Her pubic hair, dyed pink, teased into a shape vaguely reminiscent of a candy wrapper.

Fiore, known for her multi-layered portrayals of womanhood bordering on documentary-style imagery, set out to capture the long, introspective path to self-acceptance and maturity. Her characters embody the different stages of this journey. She collaborated with hairstylist Yumiko Hikage and makeup artist Lynski to create "intimate hairstyles" for each character. The press release states: "Pubic hair, often a subject of societal discomfort and taboo, is reclaimed here as a site of personal expression and empowerment." Fiore and Klychkova found it important to offer a humorous, lighthearted take on the subject matter. "We had a blast on set. Every girl was so into the idea of wearing wigs, and the reactions to what Yumiko and Lynski created were absolutely priceless."

Photos courtesy of Motherland

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld

Alyssa Marie Groeneveld graduated from Central Saint Martins during the pandemic. With fabric stores closed, she began draping using scraps of old Nike tracksuits she had on hand. Initially planning to recreate her silhouettes once government restrictions were lifted, her MA tutor encouraged her to continue experimenting with pre-existing materials. A few seasons in, she's starting to come into her own. Together with stylist and consultant Mirko Pedone, she’s refined her brand image. She’s even developed a way to reproduce her intuitively draped creations on size-inclusive mannequins.

Groeneveld continues to be drawn to sportswear for its inherent functionality and practical seams, but for Spring 2025, she is incorporating tailoring into the mix. The collection, titled "Sunrise," is inspired by the different characters populating the early morning hours of the cityscape: business commuters, joggers and hazy-eyed clubgoers. These personas are recycled into modern, avant-garde shapes. This season, she ventured to Paris to host her first-ever showroom, backed by Nike in a full-circle moment, finally bringing her creations into the world.

Photography by Ladislav Kyllar