Lacoste Tells Its Founder's Story in Paris

Lacoste Tells Its Founder's Story in Paris

By Justin MoranOct 04, 2024

Creative Director Pelagia Kolotouros is looking through Lacoste’s rich history in order to push the iconic fashion sportswear brand into the future. For Fall 2024, this meant paying tribute to Founder René Lacoste’s competitive spirit as a tennis champion in France. (He was known as “the Crocodile” to his opponents, hence the famous Lacoste logo.) And this season at ParisFashion Week, Pelagia wanted to focus more on his personal life as a prompt to build out Lacoste’s lifestyle offerings “and give a bit more storytelling to [René],” she says. “Bringing it full-circle.”

The entirety of Spring 2025 expands upon Lacoste’s archives, starting specifically with a photo Pelagia found of René wearing a swimsuit and hanging out with friends by the ocean. “It’s a very personal image,” she says. “Something you’d find in your grandfather’s old photo album, so it gives you that sentimentality.” From there, Pelagia zeroed in on the 1920s as a reference point with its “youthful, happy and joyous spirit,” and began creating a functional wardrobe that could move from the beach to the court. “We’re one of the only brands that’s been around for more than 90 years in this sports spectrum.”

Her mood board filled up with studied references to René and the world he created for himself a century ago. Black-and-white images of men in one-piece swimsuits with cutouts on the sides inspired the primary silhouette for much of this collection. An update on the Lacoste logo, which appeared as repeating patterns or single embroidered patches, came from René’s own notes. “He was one of those guys who’d always have a notebook in the back of his pocket,” Pelagia says. The Lacoste team even uncovered René’s love for painting and developed an impressionist print of a tennis match: “It’s really taking elements of the past and turning it up a notch.”

Lacoste’s DNA is prevalent throughout, as in its famous track suits, polos and pleats. Under Pelagia, elements historically associated with the brand have been reimagined and, in some instances, made to feel more luxurious or modern. The materiality was critical in doing so: crocheted tennis dresses, shirts fashioned with a softer viscose hand-feel and matching sets in buttery leather. Soft tailoring is being incorporated more into the Lacoste language, as well. This season, they’ve introduced three-button blazers with flooded pants and mini skirts to be styled on top that evoke “a certain kind of comfort and ease that is reminiscent of French elegance, but has an American point-of-view,” says Pelagia, a New York native.

Lacoste’s pursuit of becoming a lifestyle brand continues with its spring accessories: tennis shoes with chunky outsoles, jelly sandals in bright green and yellow, and kitten heels with nylon outer shells; sunglasses modeled after vintage frames Pelagia’s team sourced and updated for a new generation; pins that serve “as a road map to Lacoste,” with the crocodile parts separated into its eyes and teeth to be worn on lapels; leather totes with graphic prints recreating old Lacoste shopping bags or smaller statement purses with pleats like Lacoste’s signature tennis skirt. They’re “really offering the consumer a head-to-toe look,” Pelagia says, suggesting this to be Lacoste’s “natural progression.”

At Lacoste’s PFW runway show, attended by names like Alton Mason and Venus Williams, Pelagia’s “Tennis to the Seaside” vision came to life. Screens filled the space playing videos of ocean waves crashing, as guests were seated to the relaxing sounds of water splashing. Sand ran down the center of the catwalk with a massive hanging sculpture made entirely of white tennis nets overhead. “Seeing all the elements we’ve worked on for such a long time come together in one moment” is always exciting for Pelagia. Supermodel Alex Consani looked effortless in their boxy yellow jacket over a crocheted bralette and shorts.

Despite Lacoste’s references pulling from the past, René’s story looks more relevant than ever, in part due to a collective obsession with tennis-core in a post-Challengers trend cycle. (The ultra-short, high-waisted shorts for men and trim polos printed with the word “Match” are sure to be favorites.) Pelagia’s new direction speaks to someone who might not have considered themselves a Lacoste customer, while building upon a solid foundation that’s proven to have real staying power. “We’re reaching an audience who really desires something that’s a little more elevated,” she says. “Something more luxurious, more evening, more sensual.”

This article is a sponsored partnership between PAPER and Lacoste.