NYFW Day 5: Peter Do's Most Personal Collection Yet, Colin LoCascio's IRL Debut and More

It was those earlier, formative collections that Do wanted to revisit this time around, the ones that never walked a fashion show but had people gagging purely by how their looked on Instagram: oversized tailoring, sharp pleating, sleek cuts and those lust-worthy boots with metal cap-toes.

"Home," his last show set against the Manhattan skyline with hundreds of guests packed outside, was the kind of grand introduction emerging designers could ever hope for. So how do you follow up your big IRL debut? "Foundation is my most personal collection to date; I found my power in these garments," Do wrote in his show notes.

Keeping things intentional, edited and focused, there were just 36 looks in four colorways (black, gray, camel and white) with models walking in a slow but commanding pace. A big theme was modularity — detachable linings, unzipped sleeves etc. — all of which ties back to the idea of a wardrobe and uniform that Do championed since the very beginning.

Gabriela Hearst had gender on her mind, or rather, the breaking down of sexual and gender labels. Her show notes cited a long passage by Professor Emanuele Lugli about the history of gender as it relates to politics and science. Hearst is not particularly known for androgyny in the literal sense, but her oversized trenches, blankets and ponchos in heirloom materials certainly blur that distinction.

A pair of presentations in the middle of the day happened to be among the most visceral and engaging of the bunch. Colin LoCascio (whose first claim to fame was his work on the Kendall + Kylie label) made his IRL debut with a psychedelic garden party complete with models in a patchwork vegan leather trench, 3-D crushed velvet floral puffers and tinsel eyelash knit — all inspired by quirky, outer-borough gals like Ugly Betty and Adriana from the Sopranos.

In the cozy, candle-lit interior (pun intended) of the West Village's Waverly Inn, Interior's Lily Miesmer and Jack Miner had models perched and lounging in the restaurant's booths while they ate fries and shrimp and drank champagne. The pair started the brand in 2020 with clothes that were never about being prim and perfect — there's always something off-kilter, playful or even dark about the way a jacket is cinched or a dress hangs off the body. Their Fall outing was no exception, with bursting ruffles, crushed metallic fabrics and worn-out knits that looked every bit at home at the makeshift dinner party.