The Chicest Shows From Milan Fashion Week

Marni Chases White Rabbits

This season, Marni was thinking about the fleeting nature of beauty, comparing it to chasing a white rabbit in a mad rush. Creative director Francesco Risso invited guests to the brand's showroom to strip down the usual fashion show spectacle to focus on design. Cotton, leather and suede were the primary materials, and there were rose prints, rhinestones, scraped-away fabric and pages of literature hand-pasted onto jerseys. Scored by Dev Hynes and within the same aesthetic universe of the collection, the music featured three pianos, played by Hynes, Sharleen Chidiac and Adam Tendler. Also choreographed by Sharleen Chidiac, the models sauntered in groups of three, without a defined runway, evoking a walk through the enchanted forest of Marni.

Photos courtesy of Marni

Prada Gets Illogical

Prada reminded us that we exist in an era of information overload, immersed in a constant stream of content: "Our consumption of the infinite panorama offered by the Internet is driven by algorithms, finite sequences of instructions that circumscribe the decidable through logic in a fundamentally illogical world," read the show notes. With that in mind, the brand presented an unpredictable and wild collection for Spring 2025, called "Infinite Present," which the brand describes as "the plurality of Prada," with elements from different era co-exsiting simultaneously.

Photos courtesy of Prada

Diesel's Denim Universe

Highlighting the beauty of waste, Diesel's Spring 2025 show was created from almost 33,000 pounds of denim scraps that'll be reused and repurposed. In the collection itself, it was all about elevating denim and casual pieces. Denim short shorts were embroidered with extra-long fringing. A leather double breasted jacket was treated to look like denim and paired with distressed jeans with tufted front seams and embroidered fringing across the ankle. Cotton sweatshirts, mini-dresses and tanks also had distressed necklines. “There is beauty in waste, in what is distressed and destroyed," said creative director Glenn Martens. "It’s in the circularity of denim waste, and into the distressing that we build into the collection. This is the disruption of Diesel: we are pushing for circularity in our production as hard as we push the elevation of design."

Photos courtesy of Diesel

Bottega Veneta Gets Childish

Bottega Veneta told a coming-of-age story where creative director Matthieu Blazy reminded us of power of sincerity, playfulness, and chic awkwardness. Silhouettes were misproportioned like a kid playing grown-up, while conventional grown-up sophistication was undone — Italian sophistication infused with the joyful and fearless energy of youth. “As a kid, there is the adventure of the everyday — there’s a feeling that anything could happen, no matter how fantastical and we are not so bound by regular expectations and conventions. The door is open to the possibility of strange realities and wonder, impossible scenarios that banish disillusion. This is about the power of sincerity over strategy,” Blazy said in a press release. “Can we find power in sweetness? Can the charm of the intrepid collide with rigorous precision? Would it make a new movement? What would the kid in you want? I wanted to feel the primal pull of fashion once more, a coming-of-age fascination that encompasses the joy of looking, discovering and dressing: the power of wow!”

Photos courtesy of Bottega Veneta

BOSS Is Out of Office

For Spring 2025, BOSS debuted its "Out of Office" collection that broke away from conventional corporate attire, deconstructing more formal dress code to create a clocked-out approach and promoting a more balanced lifestyle. Even the courtyard of the Palazzo del Senato was transformed into a calm oasis, with models walked along a winding runway through botanical scenery. "For Spring 2025 we’ve reinvented suiting — the epitome of BOSS’s tailoring heritage — with a softer approach, where the silhouette is dictated by the wearer’s body, leaving more room for freedom and expression of individuality,” said Marco Falcioni, SVP of Creative Direction at HUGO BOSS, in a press release. “We’ve stepped away from traditional double-breasted power suits, whose sharp cuts define the silhouette and are perceived as an inflexible shield around the wearer. This season, the hero piece is the understated three-button suit in lighter fabrics, gently wrapping the body without the constructs of shoulder-pads and constrictive internal structures. This is a reset: A real BOSS is empowered and self-confident; they know when to log off and claim back their time, go out and relax, free from the hierarchy of rules and regulations.”

Photos courtesy of BOSS