These days, Casey Cadwallader is spending a lot of time in his garden at his country home outside of Paris. While that resulted in a in a collection inspired by flowers and a more scaled-back runway, the creative director of Mugler didn't abandon his dark and dramatic point of view for the brand's 50th anniversary.
Stars like Cardi B, Anitta, Laverne Cox and Normani came to Le Trianon, a theater and concert hall in Pigalle, for the intimate show — a 180 from the theatrical Fall 2024 runway that had massive curtains falling and drones flying around in darkness and fog. The focus was on the clothes, as Cadwallader dug into the archives as sort of a refresh for his vision at the brand after seven years.
Colin Jones opened the show in V-shaped black bangs, complementing the sharp tailoring with a curved neckline, fastened by a single pearl button. What followed was dresses in stacked layers of dyed organza, utilitarian khaki sets, black dresses with petal-shaped skirts, and a conceptual dress embellished with Baccarat crystal drops suspended on clear netting and topped with a transparent PVC rain jacket.
Below, PAPER got an exclusive look backstage at the Mugler Spring 2025 show.
Photography: José Cuevas
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