Another menswear season in Milan wraps up, with JW Anderson making its runway debut there, Jeremy Scott holding his first all-men's Moschino show (no female models interspersed this time) and celebrities like Jake Gyllenhaal and Jeff Goldblum making cameos all over the Italian fashion capital. Below, the biggest highlights from Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring 2023.
PRADA MEN'S SPRING 2023
Once again held at the Fondazione Prada, the brand's contemporary art center designed by Rem Koolhaas, the set resembled a blown-up suburban house interior. The white walls, browns floors and gingham curtains were all made of raw-edged paper — the invitation also came with a paper gingham coat — while cardboard cube seats lined the perimeter.
Rather than one recurring motif, the collection was broken up into several groups, from picnic-ready gingham checks to light-wash denim. A range of sweaters came in graphic, bold stripes in neon and primary colors, while the collection finished off with a set of beige mac coats with black turtlenecks and leather shorts with double zippers.
According to the show notes, Spring 2023 is about "archetypal" and "recognizable" garments that appear simple but are reinvented through things like unusual combinations and complex reference points.
The most stylish duo was hands down Dwyane Wade and Gabrielle Union, both of whom showed up in a version of a Prada tank top or dress (he paired his with black parachute pants and she went the fringe dress route) before switching to chill separates for the Prada post-show dinner at Ristorante Torre.
Jeff Goldblum, the breakout runway star at the last men's show, was seated in the audience this time around next to wife Emilie Livingston. He was in the front row with fellow Prada Men's Fall 2022 campaign star Rami Malek, as well as Elite's Manu Rios, NCT's Jaehyun and the face of Prada's Luna Rossa Ocean fragrance Jake Gyllenhaal — all of whom joined Prada for the dinner after.
FENDI MEN'S SPRING 2023
The brand's Via Solari showroom was once again the setting for the runway show, which featured sculptures of the brand's signature double-F logo hanging from the ceiling and projected in spotlights against the walls.
Courtesy of Fendi
After last season's outing of classic occasion-wear for the polished gentleman (remember that dandy finale look?), Spring is much more relaxed and carefree, with words like "freedom" and "ease" punctuating the shownotes. Silvia Venturini Fendi's idea of a destination wardrobe includes things like cowhide prints, casual Trompe-l'œil looks, experimental denim and painterly prints on coats and loose-fitting shirts.
From Hollywood veterans like Edgar Ramirez to next-gen actors like Stranger Things' Noah Schnapp, the front row was lined with a mix of familiar faces and young upstarts across Italy, the US, UK and South Korea — like the rapper and Fendi brand ambassador Zico. Other VIPs included Brazilian actor André Lamoglia, British actor Anson Boon and Mick Jagger's son Lucas.
VERSACE MEN'S SPRING 2023
The Golden Locks
Gold is the color most synonymous with Versace's baroque universe, but it was still striking to see the models' hair covered in a layer of shimmery gold foil courtesy of iconic makeup and hair duo Pat McGrath and Guido Palau.
The Sons of Versace Models
The sons of some of the Versace's biggest models of the '90s — Mark Vanderloo, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni, Angela Lindvall — made their modeling debut at the Spring show (“What I love about this new generation is that they like to dare. You can see they are curious," Donatella told WWD.)
The Home Goods
Speaking of Versace universe, the brand casually emphasized its other category — a home collection — thanks to a series of vases and urns that models carried in lieu of bags, all rendered in their signature baroque and Medusa prints. (Perhaps not coincidentally, the Salone di Mobile furniture fair, where tons of fashion brands were represented, just ran in Milan this month.)
JW ANDERSON MEN'S SPRING 2023
Broken skateboards, BMX handlebars, double jean waistbands, shattered CDs, barcodes, door hinges and safety gloves — all seemingly random items embedded into otherwise "normal" items like pullovers, distressed denim and baggy t-shirts in JW Anderson's bonkers menswear lineup (the women's Resort pieces were equally eclectic, particularly the Trompe-l'œil dresses/denimskirt hybrids). In Anderson's words: "Taking norms of everyday clothing and kind of mechanically putting them back together,” he tells WWD.
MOSCHINO MEN'S SPRING 2023
Mainly Italian influencers plus TikTok stars like Blake Gray (who's certainly been making the rounds this season — he was also at Prada, Etro and Fendi), Olympic champion Tom Daley and actor Ross Butler, who most know from 13 Reasons Why. Meanwhile, guests were fanning themselves incessantly. The Italian summer heat is no joke.
Plain and simple: Tony Viramontes. Jeremy Scott cited the late illustrator and his works as the focal point of the collection. He paid homage by collaborating with the artist's estate to produce the pieces featuring the motifs, faces and figures from Viramontes' pop-art colors and abstract squiggles. (The Buffalo styling movement of the '80s was another reference.)
“I wanted to shine a light on this brilliant creator,” said Scott. “He may not be a household name, but Tony Viramontes is a force.”
ETRO MEN'S SPRING 2023
Changing of the Guard
It was Kean Etro's last solo collection for Etro, where he's been designing the men's line since 1990. The baton is being passed to Marco de Vincenzo, an Italian design veteran, who will present his first Etro collection as creative director in September during the women's shows.
Poetry! For the invites, guests received a phone call from an actor reciting one of Kean's favorite poems. The collection's ode to poetry translated into things like delicate broderie anglaise, billowy silk caftans, sensual knits and botanical prints.
“Poetry and utopia go hand in hand,” he told Vogue Runway. “In its etymology, poetry simply means making, composing. I wanted to give value to the idea of creating, which shouldn’t be separated from utopia.”
Courtesy of Etro
A shirt tucked into nothing but a leather speedo! I remember doing this when I was younger (into my underwear) so my shirts wouldn't untuck out of my dress pants at church. Except now it's all out there front and center. Kudos to the runway stylist Giovanni Dario Laudicina for the chuckle.