This main storyline coming into this season was the four designers taking over storied houses for the first time: Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally, Marco de Vincenzo at Etro and Filippo Grazioli at Missoni, with the hopes that these shakeups will bring new energy into sometimes dusty Milan.
Celebrity cameos dominated the runways yet again, with Paris Hilton closing Versace and Tommy Lee in rock star mode at Philipp Plein. That Kate Moss walk at Bottega Veneta is already a meme, and twins randomly were top of mind at Gucci and Sunnei. All of this against the backdrop of a new election for Prime Minister. (Why does there always seem to be some sort of political happening during Fashion Month?)
Below, a rundown of what went down at Milan Fashion Week Spring 2023.
After first teaming up for Fall 2022, MM6 Maison Margiela and Salomon are continuing their collaboration, debuting its latest iteration on the former's Spring 2023 runway in Milan. This time around, there's an MM6 Salomon Adv Skin 5 running vest, as well as the French outdoor sports brand’s signature sole tooling in blush and black thigh-high boots.
Sunnei's Conceptual Twin Commentary
@carolineissaofficial If only all fashion shows could keep you this engaged by guessing who’s up next up! #fashiontiktok #sunnei #twins #catwalk #models #twinmodels ♬ Supermodel - Ru Paul
Gucci wasn't the only brand to cast identical twins for its show. Just hours after that outing, Sunnei presented its own take on twins with a viral show that saw one twin emerge from the audience and onto the runway before heading toward a revolving door where their other half came out in a different outfit. “It’s a metaphor of how fashion can act as a transformative force, which is as magical as it is utterly crazy," the designers said backstage.
Kate Moss' Viral Walk at Bottega Veneta
kate moss for bottega veneta ss23 pic.twitter.com/U5tWHryIt8— maría (@MOSSYVIBES) September 24, 2022
The quote tweets from the video of Kate Moss walking the Bottega Veneta show had me in tears this week. While her normcore outfit looked rather simple to the non-trained eye — jeans, tank and a loose plaid shirt — it was all made from leather, a concept Matthieu Blazy introduced in his first show for the brand last season. But users had a field day with the video, comparing her walk to errands at Target and walking in late to class, among other things. Moss' casual, seemingly listless expression certainly contributed to the discourse.
Matty Bovan Brings London Punk Energy to Milan
Photo courtesy of Monica Feudi
One of the biggest Milan highlights last season was London-based designer Miss Sohee's dreamy, opulent presentation that was supported by Dolce & Gabbana, showing how resources and funding can make a huge different for young designers with limited means but tons of creative ideas. The same happened on the last day of MFW this season with British designer Matty Bovan repurposing old D&G archives into his signature maximalist, psychedelic aesthetic with checkerboard corsets, super wide skirts and papier-mâché jewelry.
Paris Hilton, Versace Barbie Girl
Donatella Versace loves a main pop girl moment on her runway, as appearances from Jennifer Lopez and Dua Lipa in recent seasons demonstrate. The latest cameo came from none other than Paris Hilton who closed the Versace show in a bridal Barbie look much to the delight of the crowd. "Thank you @Donatella_Versace for having me close your @Versace runway show in Milan.✨💃🏼✨," Hilton wrote. "It was such an honor and a dream come true!🥰💫 Such an iconic and special night."
A Quartet of Creative Director Debuts
Photos via Getty
It's been a long time since Milan has seen this many new creative directors debut their collections for heritage labels in the same season. At Ferragamo, which also debuted logo (sans serif, no more Salvatore), buzzy London designer Maximilian Davis presented his first collection for the house in a palazzo with red sand, a new signature color for the brand.
The short shorts for men were a hit, as were the one-shoulder tops and sinuous dresses. Rhude's Rhuigi Villaseñor's first show for Bally drew comparison to Tom Ford for Gucci, and that denim shirt over black evening skirt Joan Smalls wore on the runway was a smash hit. Etro and Missoni's new era also came to fruition thanks to Marco de Vincenzo and Filippo Grazioli, respectively.
The Kardashian Clan Show Up for Kim's Dolce & Gabbana Show
Courtesy of Jason Lloyd Evans
You knew Kim was up to something in Milan when she was spotted leaving the D&G offices in one of the brand's most famous archive looks. Though she attended the Prada show last season, it turns out the Dolce & Gabbana show would be her only stop this week, only not on the front row but backstage.
She curated the brand's Spring 2023 collection by selecting pieces from past collections (1987 to 2007, in fact) that the designers would then rework. Her three kids, Kris Jenner and sister Khloe all came out to support, each of them in their own D&G wares (the brand "hosted" Kourtney's nuptials to Travis Barker this year). A video of Kim eating pasta was projected on the runway as models came out in the vintage-inspired looks.
Patrick Star in Fishnets Appears at GCDS
That famous still of Patrick Star wearing fishnet tights, seen in virtually every meme account these days, made an appearance at GCDS alien-themed Spongebob Squarepants show. "It’s a posse of alien club kids, towering on massive platforms, faces painted in multiple colors, expressing the idea that being different is an opportunity, and that minorities must be protected in order to progress," the show notes said.
The Boys of Blumarine
Photos courtesy of Blumarine
Nicola Brognano showed just three looks on male models for his mermaid-themed Spring 2023 Blumarine collection, but it was enough to get fans of brand to freak out. The Blumarine boy wears low-slung bell-bottom jeans, cropped tanks, butterfly motifs and wispy sleeves. Simone Rocha teased a few menswear looks last year before committing to it for her latest show — here's hoping Brognano does the same.
Tommy Lee Gets the Crowd Going at Philipp Plein
Fresh off of showing the world his dick pic, Tommy Lee emerged at Philipp Plein's rock star-themed show, which he sountracked from a drum kit before he came out and threw off his biker jacket for the finale, dancing down the runway with Plein and the models.