Falling For CBK’s Timeless Style in 'Love Story'

Things began on a rocky footing for the latest Ryan Murphy produced show. When first in production, leaked set photos quickly came under public fire for Carolyn’s costume design. Her clothing was oddly Zara-esque: the fabrics didn’t lay the way they should against her and the colors didn’t work. In one photo, we can see Carolyn stepping out into New York wearing… Converse. Besides this drastic overstep of all the laws of the sartorial universe, they dyed her hair an unsightly beaming blonde and gave her a Birkin 35 instead of her usual 40. These strange decisions led to the original costume designer being fired, with Rudy Mance taking his place. And Mance has certainly delivered.

Opening the first episode with Carolyn in a black button down and trouser-loafer ensemble, the cherry on top is her signature Aldo glasses by Selima Salaun, whose boutique now produces a sister pair called The Carolyn. What makes the difference in costume quality is Mance’s commitment to recreating her previous looks, instead of trying to manufacture new ones in the style of the 21st century. Throughout the initial episodes, she is put in slim black dresses, J.Crew sweaters, Calvin Klein, Manolo Blahniks and other timely pieces. The real secret? Draping. All the modern clothes that were used still drape like they were made for a ‘90s silhouette, sans wrinkles or un-bias cut construction. The new team clearly understands Carolyn’s greatest weapon: her love of minimalism and utilizing classics.

As the show progresses, I look forward to seeing Carolyn’s high-fashion looks recreated. Known as a lover of designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Prada, viewers might witness the more luxurious facets of her minimalist wardrobe. But one thing is certain: the costume team change was definitely needed, because what has come after is a master-class in decade dressing.

That team has also nailed JFK Jr. as well, who was admittedly easier to recreate. He. waltzes around in his signature blazers, patterned ties, and beret (please keep the East Village from attempting.) Carolyn’s je ne sais quoi sparkles on screen with Pidgeon’s charming smile. AlongsideAnthony Kelly’s disgustingly handsome visage, the duo will probably garner the show an Emmy (or, at least, a nomination.)

Importantly, the series brings the figures to younger audiences, who were not there to witness the couple's domestic disputes in Central Park. Although the show will bring Carolyn’s posh look to a new cohort, I still don’t see the style coming back any time soon for Gen Z. We are far too entrenched in our indie sleaze vagabonding and thrifting culture to replicate her clean-cut look. Many young adults also don’t have the budget to recreate her style, consisting of upscale items fit for a socialite. Carolyn’s aesthetic worked because she had a Kennedy by her side and a preternatural charm, bolstered by her time at Calvin Klein and in the ‘90s fashion world. It simply won’t look the same on anyone else, which is why the costume team did such a spectacular job instilling Sarah Pidgeon with the class of our beloved CBK.

As part of Gen Z myself, I had first heard of Carolyn through a Youtube essay on ‘90s minimalism and its various icons. For those without the natural taste for fashion inquiry, Love Story re-introduces Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy as a pillar of style. Maybe, even with my reservations, it will bring a resurgence in muted minimalism in spite of our current economic precarity.

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