In Irish, Scottish, Icelandic and Scandinavian folklore, a selkie is a woman of the ocean who lives inside a seal skin. When she comes to up bask in the sun on the surface she takes it off, but if a man is able to steal the skin while she sleeps, she has to become his wife and live on land. But, if she finds her skin again, she transforms back into her true form and returns to the freedom of the ocean.
Selkie is also the name of the brand by Kimberley Gordon, which makes romantic and fantastical dresses in a wide range of sizes. Last week, the brand held a runway show at the end of New York Fashion Week at the Gothic Angel Orensanz Foundation.
Called "Libertine," the Fall 2025 collection came from Gordon drawing parallels between today's cultural events and the revolutionary spirit of 18th century France, while also taking the historically masculine movement and turning it into a celebration of feminine power. "We're on the precipice of what feels like a revolution," Gordon says. "There's a lot politically that feels that way, except now women aren't held back in the way that they were in the 18th century."
The dresses embrace historical excess, like from the opulent era of Marie Antoinette. "I've always been inspired by that over-the-top time period of abundance in clothes and this extreme freedom of expression," Gordon explains. "When cages were so large you filled up a room and having a boat in your hair was not only a norm, it was a political statement. When you strip the Selkie model down, she is still bold and strong and takes up space. It does not matter what trends come and go, what matters is making sure this girl, the Selkie girl, is always seen.”
The cherry on top of the show was the hair by Linh Nguyen and makeup by Lottie, which also drew inspiration from the era — wigs reaching the sky and decorated with feathers, bows and tchotchkes, with powdered faces and cheeks covered in blush.
Below, PAPER got a look backstage at the Selkie show to see 18th century France come to life.
Photography: Katia Temkin
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