Some Great Moments At Milan Fashion Week

Blumarine’s Spring 2026 collection lived in that in-between space where romance turned a little dangerous, with creative director David Koma taking the brand’s soft, flirty DNA and lacing it with a gothic edge, channeling the drama of old love stories and fantasy worlds. Butterflies and dragonflies came with a dark side with symbols of light and shadow fluttering through dresses that came delicate and deconstructed. Flowing georgette, frayed satin and spiderweb tulle moved like smoke and felt a little haunted. Tailoring got twisted with wing-like ruffles, lace peeked out from under trousers and accessories included rhinestone crosses, dragonfly chokers and sculptural bras that doubled as jewelry. Even the bags and shoes played along — pierced canvas messengers, butterfly backpacks, crystal-charmed stilettos and kitten-heeled boots with a wicked streak. It was dark romanticism, but made Blumarine: dreamy, dramatic and dangerously pretty.

Photos courtesy of Blumarine

Louise Trotter’s debut for Bottega Veneta looked back to the brand’s beginnings to chart its future. For her, the idea of the “bottega,” a workshop where craftsmanship and collaboration meet, is central. The collection celebrated that spirit through what Trotter called “soft functionality,” a concept rooted in the house’s signature Intrecciato weave. That idea of flexibility and strength ran through everything — from supple Nappa leather trenches and cotton-lined gowns, to sharply-cut summer-weight tailoring made in Italy’s traditional menswear workshops. The clothes balanced structure and ease, discipline and warmth, bringing a new fluidity to both men’s and women’s pieces. The accessories revisited Bottega’s history with subtle shifts: the Lauren bag in new proportions, the Knot reimagined with a softer shape, and the Cabat transformed into clutches and new structural references. And there were some new additions like the Squash, Framed Tote, and Crafty Basket to further show off the house’s craftsmanship in motion. Marking Bottega Veneta’s 60th anniversary, Trotter collaborated with British artist and filmmaker Steve McQueen on a soundtrack blending Nina Simone and David Bowie’s versions of "Wild Is the Wind," woven together like an aural Intrecciato. As Trotter put it, the collection and the house itself are about connection — different materials, voices and histories intertwined to create something strong and modern.

Photos courtesy of Bottega Veneta

Jil Sander’s Spring 2026 show began with a quiet sense of discovery inside the brand’s own headquarters. It was a fitting homecoming, as the last show there was in 2017, and the return was both introspective and forward-looking. Against a backdrop washed entirely in white, with a single black runway slicing through the room with a Bochum Welt soundtrack, new creative director Simone Bellotti used his debut to explore what purity means. Can simplicity still surprise? Can less truly be more? His answer was a study in tension and restraint — sharp tailoring softened by folds, strict lines offset by movement and light. Womenswear and menswear mirrored each other in dusty pastels and deep neutrals, georgette and leather. Dresses rippled with clustered strips of fabric; metallics and mirrored finishes hinted at both armor and vulnerability. Accessories played their part too in the form of square-toed shoes, kitten-heeled brogues and sleek new handbags like the Pivot. It all came together as a thoughtful statement on duality: seriousness with a hint of play, structure infused with emotion and a continued search for meaning in simplicity.

Photos courtesy Jil Sander

For Spring 2026, Sportmax showed its collection inside the historic Frigoriferi Milanesi, a former cold-storage space now known for preserving and restoring precious objects. The setting reflected the brand’s ongoing conversation between past and future, heritage and innovation. This season, creative direction turned outward, inspired by the need for perspective and lightness embodied by an antique telescope found in the building’s restoration lab. The clothes captured that same balance of dreaminess and practicality. Sheer organza appeared in trenches, tailored linings and even structured trousers, adding airiness to familiar silhouettes, while doublé wool and soft glove leather offered grounding and substance. Prints of hand-painted flowers — created with Japanese cosmetics, liquid lipstick, and nail polish — were layered in translucent overlays. Hand-molded leather flowers added sculptural texture to halter tops and accessories. The silhouette stayed sharp but free, with architectural cuts, soft openings and plays of opacity that felt quietly sensual. Accessories continued the story with kitten-heeled mules and soft bags featuring Sportmax’s signature "S" hardware and hand-shaped leather charms. Overall, the collection distilled the brand’s codes down to what endures: clarity, function and quiet sensuality.

Photos courtesy of Sportmax

Versace’s Spring 2026 show dug deep into the house’s DNA for creative Dario Vitale's highly-anticipated debut, peeling back the layers of glam and mythology to reconnect with its raw, sensual core. Set in Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, the collection drew from the brand's archives and reinterpreted familiar Versace codes through sharp tailoring, lingerie-inspired pieces, denim, leather and metal. The result was elegant, grounded, sexy and still designed for real life and movement. Dresses shimmered in mixed metals, leather jackets were patched and lived-in, and denim came in Mediterranean hues with a sun-faded feel. And of course, Versace’s trademark glamour was still present in decadent beading, tight drapes and bold prints — a reminder of Versace’s enduring sex appeal.

Photos courtesy of Versace