There's a lot they don't teach you in fashion school. Having started as a designer before becoming a stylist, I know how hard it is to build your own label, for instance, next to multimillion giants like Inditex and Mango. Still, each year a new crop of fresh graduates continue to hit the ground running, inspiring industry insiders with their communication and presentation.
Here's a list of some of the brands that have caught my eye since Fashion Week. I'm curious to see how they will shape fashion and to witness their growth into global brands. Stay tuned…
Xu Zhi first interned with JW Anderson (and now works from his old studio) before launching his London-based fashion brand with a contemporary aesthetic based on craftsmanship and a unique detail for textures. At first it looks like knitwear, but each of the yarns are braided individually by hand and laid down onto jersey/wool/silk on a pattern and embroidered over the top. Stocked at DSM in London.
After studying womenswear at Central Saint Martins in London, Shiori Suzuki gained many skills working for fashion labels across the globe. Bringing her experience to her own label in 2016, her SS17 collection RED & BLACK takes inspiration from androgyny and texture from various movements throughout London. Her collection portrays a Punk and Rave energy whilst still appealing to the feminine side of fashion.
London-based brand DBX BERDANXX show they are very much in the now with their season motto "Fake is the New Black." Their gender fluid clothing is pushing their brand into the cool side of London fashion. Its underground sportswear look and eye-catching colors make it one to watch.
GIUSEPPE di MORABITO
Finalist of the Woolmark Prize, Morabito is a top newcomer in the industry. Conservative pieces are twisted into a cool, fresh, and personal aesthetic. Ruffles, embroidering (mostly flowers), organza, tulle and faux-fur are so Italian over-the-top but oh so refined and the finishing is perfect. Everybody who works with me knows that's all I talk about!. The structure of the collection is offering pieces for every hour of the day.
Act N1 is a womenswear label founded in Italy by Luca Lib and Galib Gassanoff in 2016. Their multicultural background is brought to life into the SS18 collection with a melting pot of prints and asymmetries. It's interesting to see how the pattern-making process offers a variety of looks in one, as dresses turn into tops and sleeves turn into belts. In July 2017 they won the Vogue Italia and Alta Roma contest "Who is Next." Keep your eyes on Act N1.