The Buzziest Shows From Men's Fashion Week in Europe

The Buzziest Shows From Men's Fashion Week in Europe

BYAndrew NguyenJun 24, 2024

Just as summer kicks off, so does another fashion month in Europe for a round of menswear shows.

The spring 2025 shows start in London, travel to Italy (Florence for Pitti Uomo and then Milan), and finally finish in Paris. This season's biggest moments so far were Alessandro Michele debut for Valentino with a Resort 2025 collection that included both women's and menswear, Pharrell's latest Louis Vuitton show, Walter van Beirendonck's cheeky collaboration with G-Star RAW and yet another avant-garde moment from Rick Owens at Palais de Tokyo.

Below, check out highlights from the men's Spring 2025 shows in Europe, and keep checking back for more updates.

Pharrell's Louis Vuitton Finds Its Humanity

For Louis Vuitton spring 2025 men's collection, creative director Pharrell celebrated humanity and the things that connect us all. Just consider the setting: La Maison de l’UNESCO, constructed in 1958 in the name of uniting humanity in world peace through culture. The show opened with a movie directed by the creative collective Air Afrique — an African-French cultural platform dedicated to the expansion of Afro-diasporic arts, conversations and knowledge — who also collaborated on graphics and patterns for the collection featured in the film. Designed in the plethora of skin tones of everyone around the globe, the clothing reflected different archetypes of travelers while introducing a new line of soft leather goods. Withe Olympics soon to begin — and more than clothing, shoes, bags and accessories, Pharrell's show served as reminder to find our shared humanity. As the opening film said, "You are the future. The world is your oyster. It’s up to you to reinvent it. It’s up to you to reimagine it."

Photos courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Rick Owens Goes to Church

To no surprise, Rick Owens is for the weirdos and freaks. While last season's collection was called "Porterville," after the small town that Owens came from, this season's was called, "Hollywood," the place where the designer found his people. Models walked in coordinating outfits in "biblical whites," as he calls them, with varying hoods and headpieces. It seemed as if he was also thinking about the oneness of humanity, inviting everyone and asking all the fashion schools in Paris to send its students and faculty to see who might want to walk in "this white satin army of love." Owens said, "Expressing our individuality is great but sometimes expressing our unity and reliance on each other is a good thing to remember too... especially in the face of the peak intolerance we are experiencing in the world right now."

Photos courtesy of Rick Owens

Loewe Shows Radical Restraint

Loewe's Spring 2025 men’s show happened around everyday objects created by some of the most impactful and understated artists of the 20th century: photographer Peter Hujar, architects and designers Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Carlo Scarpa and painter Paul Thek. Their pieces were elevated: a chair, a coat-stand and an easel were as complex as a building, a photograph of a single shoe became a monument, and random artifacts were displayed in bronze. The collection itself was called "A Radical Act of Constraint," inspired by Susan Sontag's exhibition "Erotics of Art," which makes sense as the clothes once again displayed Jonathan Anderson's knack for taking classic tailoring and making it something fresh and exciting.

Photos courtesy of Loewe

Alessandro Michelle Makes His Debut at Valentino

Three months after being named creative director, Alessandro Michelle debuted his first collection for Valentino (on the same day that Sabato De Sarno showed his Gucci Spring 2025 collection). For the Resort 2025, Michelle unveiled 171 looks full of 60s and 70s glamour, ruffles, fur, prints and chunky accessories. Right from the start, it's clear the designer is sticking to his maximalist and bohemian style, even at Valentino.

Photos courtesy of Valentino

David Koma Presents First-Ever Menswear Collection

For the first time ever, David Koma made menswear with a presentation in Milan, aiming to embody strength, aloofness and independence, while staying a soft and sensual. The offerings mainly include luxe wardrobe staples: crisp button-downs with feather trim, boxer shorts, denims and distressed leathers.

"Venturing into menswear feels like a natural step, completing my dream of 'Club Koma,'" the founder and creative director said in a press release. "This process has fostered a profound sense of personal connection and introspection, as I see myself as the ultimate customer for the first time. The launch of this collection is particularly special as it allows me to design with my male friends in mind, broadening the inclusivity and reach of my creative vision. I am thrilled about this new chapter and invite new voices and perspectives to join our brand’s realm."

Photos courtesy of David Koma

Walter Van Beirendonck Collabs With G-Star

At the botanical garden of the Faculté de Pharmacie de Paris in Saint-Germain, Walter Van Beirendonck presented his Spring 2025 collection, along with a capsule called "Denim with Balls" in collaboration with G-Star that'll be available in select stores worldwide in February 2025. In the collection, the designer experimented with denim and unconvetional clothes-making, primarily using methods like glueing and taping.

“I aimed to challenge and reimagine traditional methods," Walter Van Beirendonck said in a press release. "Why are clothes still being stitched when we have the potential to explore so many other techniques? This project is all about innovation, research, and pushing the conventions of fashion. It was great to be given total creative freedom by G-Star."

Photography: Etienne Tordoir