As a runway and editorial makeup artist Marcelo Gutierrez has become a regular fixture in the New York fashion scene. From Marc Jacobs to Sies Marjan, the Bogota native continues to redefine modern beauty with his vision both as a working artist and beauty expert. For fall 2019, he lent his creative lens to a number of shows, including breakout brand Puppets and Puppets, NYFW staple Gauntlett Cheng, and Christopher John Rogers. For PAPER, Gutierrez broke down the inspiration behind his shows this season, and gave us step-by-step rundowns on every product he used to create the looks.
The theme: "We really wanted to focus on adding a softer beautiful youthful element to the skin. The clothing had a story and the wigs had grittier punk-y elements. The focus was on contrasting that while enhancing that mood by painting skin that belonged to a baby. Soft, glowing, flushed and full of energy and joy. Nothing heavy."
The products: "The most important element was the skin so we focused on prepping the skin with plenty of hydration using Ole Henrikson moisturizing cream along with MAC strobe cream. Then to even out and correct any discoloration and blemishes we used Glossier skin tint and stretch concealer. Light powder along the nose and forehead. To finish I used a combination of Glossier cloud paints and MAC lipsticks to create a natural yet saturated blush to place along the cheeks and tip of the nose for that beautiful, youthful glow. For the lips we used a combination of lipsticks and glosses to create a gradient popsicle juicy neon pink pout. Nothing harsh on the face except for two models who had strong smokey eyes."
The theme: "The look revolves around clean but raw skin. Nothing fussy or too editorial. We kept the base really clean and not too powdered. The lip was a color that muted the pink tones in every model's lip color so they didn't look too baby. The blush was very apricot, nothing pink. I wanted to eliminate the pretty pink tones in the natural complexion and create a more stark cool-tone canvas. We kept the majority of natural discoloration under the eyes to further emphasize the raw skin along with clean brushed-up brows. The focus was on the eyes. With a cool tone brown, I created a strong but blurred cat-eye. The effect is a worn, effortless and cool shape that elongates the eye without the harsh and prissy edges of a Taylor Swift cat-eye. It was grungy and sexy."
The products: "The entire base was Glossier, using skin tint and stretch concealer to even out the skin then Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion concealer for blemishes. That was followed by Limited powder along the t-zone by Laura Mercier. The blush we used was Glossier Cloud paint dusk but very lightly. The lip was a combination of MAC lipsticks and concealers. The eye look was created using MAC concealer shade Dark Brown topped with a Pat McGrath brown eyeshadow."
The theme: "For the CJR show, there was a main look and a specialty look for Oyinda and Aba. The main look consistently seen throughout most of the models was a super clean perfected glowing base with a very clean eye, strong fluffy brows and a bold-glossy-fire engine-revlon red-patent lip. The look for Oyinda and Aba was a iridescent holographic second skin embellished with the same patent red lip as the others, finished with a pencil brow and black rimmed eyes. Drama."
The products: "Products used to prep the skin were Ole Henriksen moisturizer and eye cream. We used Glossier skin tint and stretch concealer and Laura Mercier flawless Fusion concealer used to perfect the skin. No blush on the main look and no eye makeup. For the brows MAC brow pencils and Glossier boy brow created a full and strong brow. The lips were lined with MAC Cherry lip pencil and filled in with NARS powermatte lip pigment in 'Dont Stop' for that incredible rich powerful and bright red lip. We finished lips with Pat McGrath red gloss to give it that patent look.
For Aba and Oyinda's look, I followed the same base and lip routine but the the base we used a combination of Pat McGrath highlighters and eyeshadows along with some Topshop single eyeshadows. The placement of the iridescent colors was important and done along all the high points for a 3D look. Pops of blue and green to create further dimension. We finished the strong hyper skin look with a strong black rimmed eye to frame the eyes or else they could get lost in the mix of holographic drama and glistening rep lips. No mascara all season."
Follow Marcelo Gutierrez on Instagram (@marcelogutierrez).
Photos via Instagram