As a first generation Italian-American, Kari Vettese is all about honoring her roots.
Founded in 2022, Vettese founded her eponymous label in Los Angeles, using sustainable fabrics and raw edges in flattering silhouettes for all women. In just the couple of years VETTESE has been around, she's gained a following of hotties with a fashion sensibility. Her designs have been worn by Kylie Jenner, Florence Pugh, Lourdes and more.
For her Spring 2025 collection, Vettese was inspired by the gaudiness of Ancient Rome. "I think it's important to note that people often think you have to come up with some story or reason, but I think the real richness comes from your own authentic one, the story you're living, the place you're from and then turning around and putting that authenticity into what you do," she tells PAPER.
Pieces throughout the collection are made using high quality cotton and cotton blends, which her close-knit team of artisans uses to create her signature tubing designs and unisex suiting separates: trenches, dress shirts, trousers and shorts. The Spring 2025 campaign was shot on location at the San Diego salt mines, along with an accompanying mini-campaign shot in a haunted hotel.
Below, see the Spring 2025 campaigns, and get some insight into the world of VETTESE in a conversation with PAPER and Kari as she gets ready for her New York Fashion Week debut on the official CFDA calendar.
What was the inspiration behind your latest collection?
This last collection had two parts: The first part was made exclusively with premium cotton to highlight the importance of fabric consciousness and the wearer prioritizing natural fibers. And part two was inspired by Ancient Roman gaudiness.
How does this collection reflect the ethos of your brand?
This last collection reflects heritage, balance and freedom — three big pillars in the VETTESE brand ethos. It's also inspired by everything from my everyday experiences. l'm inspired by everything; it can be a deep conversation I had with a friend, something from my childhood, things I've seen, and the list goes on. This relays back to the point that I feel the interesting thing about any person is the way their lenses to their experiences translate into their work.
When did you first realize that you wanted to pursue a career in fashion design?
I knew very early on. It's not something I chose. It chose me. I've been designing and working in fashion since right out of high school. I definitely love it, but not as much as I love my parents or my life. That very essence and love for life and where I'm from is what brought me here to this very place.
Was there a moment in your career that felt like a breakthrough for you?
My first show last year, which was a private residence show where the models walked through water, was definitely it. I received a lot of important calls straight after.
How does your cultural background or identity influence your approach to fashion?
My childhood and the mix of America and Italy will always be foundational to my designs. I am a first-generation American, my parents raised us very strong in our Italian heritage and very connected to those roots. I am deeply inspired by Ancient Rome and the sense of quality in everything they did.
Are there any innovative techniques or technologies you've used?
My tube designs, which are directly inspired by Ancient Rome, are a specialized Roman cotton blend using this certain roll technique. Also my first line of denim, which is for both men and women, features a back strap that is adjustable and has never been done quite like that before. We sold out the first drop online, almost immediately!
What's your favorite piece from this collection?
My favorite piece from this collection are the corseted pinstripe pants because they're the perfect balance of masculine and feminine with the corseting placed right up the backs of her legs. It's got the perfect mix of provocative and perfectly put together.
How does this collection fit into the larger trajectory of your brand's evolution?
Showcasing the commercial/luxury cross. Part one was made exclusively with premium cotton and showcasing the commerciality of VETTESE, while part two showcased the more luxury structural DNA of the brand.
What's next for you after this collection?
New York Fashion Week! I'll be showing in February! And then we'll be fulfilling plenty of wholesale orders in this year, then onto world domination. I have big announcements coming, too!
Photos courtesy of VETTESE
