Underrated Moments at London Fashion Week

Underrated Moments at London Fashion Week

BY Andrew Nguyen | Feb 25, 2025

Following a quiet New York Fashion Week, the Fall 2025 shows moved to London, where there were more lesser-known names than heavy hitters, especially compared to fashion weeks in Milan and Paris.

That means emerging brands were given a chance to shine and not get lost in the chaos, and we had time to look at shows we admittedly might have overlooked before. Designers like Angus Tsui, who built an entire sci-fi fantasy with his collection, and Edeline Lee, who staged a fully immersive combat sequence, took center stage. Denzil Patrick, Helen Anthony, Jawara Alleyne, Keburria, Toga, and Pauline Dujancourt also presented collections with strong visions.

Below, PAPER rounded up some of our favorite underrated moments at London Fashion Week that you may have missed.

Angus Tsui's Biomechanical Vision

As part of the Fashion Hong Kong runway shows, Angus Tsui invaded London Fashion Week on the first night with his newest collection, titled "Giger: Perfect Organism." Tsui's designs are loved for their futuristic, avant-garde and otherworldly silhouettes, with environmental sustainability at the core. The collection payed tribute to the brand’s biggest influence, H.R.Giger, whose airbrushed works are known for blending human and machine forms.

Denzil Patrick Everyday Majesty

Husband duo, designer Daniel Gayle and artistic director James Bosley, use clothing as a language to tell stories, often inspired by the folklore of British, Irish and Jamaican heritage, family and the people who influence them in their everyday lives. This season, their Fall 2025 collection, "Everyday Majesty," aimed to subvert expectations of masculinity through their own experiences of it, as well as mixing inspiration from medieval lords and jousters inspired by the 1981 film Knightriders.

Edeline Lee Goes to Combat

Canadian-British designer Edeline Lee has a reputation for her showing her collections with an immersive performance and Fall 2025 was no different. She opened Saturday morning of London Fashion Week with a intimate breakfast at The Dorchester Hotel, where women sparred with katanas and engaged in hand-to-hand combat, choreographed by fight director Kate Waters and film director Josie Rourke.

The Bold Tailoring of Helen Anthony

Designer Naeem Anthony of Helen Anthony presented his Fall 2025 collection as a celebration of duality inspired by the twin personalities of Gemini. The brand is known for its tailoring, craftsmanship and bold use of colors. Reds, magentas, blues, yellows, plaids and animals prints were used for suiting and coats in sharp and exaggerated silhouettes. The cherry on top was the glamorous teased hair.

Construction With Jawara Alleyne

Deconstructing is how interdisciplinary artist and designer Jawara Alleyne constructs his clothing, which is apt considering his Fall 2025 collection is called "Construction." It was all inspired by a kite, which was one of the first things Alleyne remembers making as a kid growing up in Jamaica. Off the runway, his clothes have been worn by Rihanna, Charli XCX and Shakira on her recent tour.

Keburia's Porcelain Dolls

Keburia is a womenswear and accessories brand designed and made in Tbilisi, Georgia. At his London Fashion Week debut, George Keburia was inspired by broken dolls. His version, though, were more tough, hardcore and a little bit militaristic, with dramatic proportions for a wild night out in Londontown.

Toga Thinks About Formalwear

Yasuko Furuta is the designer behind Toga, a Japanese-born brand that shows its collections each season in London. For Fall 2025, Furuta was thinking about whether or not rules of formalwear are now outdated and unnecessary, taking inspiration from the way photographer William Eggleston dresses, and how it subverts both formality and masculinity.

Pauline Dujancourt Gets Her Flowers

London-based designer Pauline Dujancourt and her namesake brand hope to redefine womenswear with textile processes like crochet and hand knitting, paying tribute to everyday women making things for their loved ones. For this season, Dujancourt's collection was about when she was a child and would visit her grandmother, who had a plant with red flowers that bloomed once a year, on her birthday in February.

Photos courtesy of the brands