The Chicest Shows From Milan Fashion Week

Avavav Has Its Haters

For its Fall 2024 show, Stockholm-based creative director of Avavav wanted to ask: What if haters are put in a real space, expressing their opinions through physical aggression? And that’s why trash was thrown at the models as they walked down the runway unbothered. The collection itself has street influences, both goth and feminine. Key looks included hooded button up shirts, styled with medieval-ish cross-shaped ties and tailored suits. The brand also presented its collaboration with Eastpak capsule collection for the first time.

Photos courtesy of Avavav

Diesel Calls In the World

This season, for more than 72 hours before its Fall 2024 show, Diesel livestreamed all of the BTS prep work: in the atelier finalizing the collection, in castings, with creative director Glenn Martens fitting the models; the casting and in the show space as the runway set was being constructed. Then for the show itself, the set included a live video call with 1000 fans of the brand from around the world. The clothes — which included coated denims, matted knits, double-dyed faux furs and burned jersey — were all layered in a nicely chaotic way. And of course, new bags and accessories and colorways offer something new to desire.

Photos courtesy of Diesel

Rave Review Turns Preppy Into Punk

Rave Review designers Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück revisited their teenage years. True to the brand DNA, the clothes were made from repurposed materials and took cues from ‘60s vintage to Y2K aesthetics. Tartans, argyle knits and leopard prints were given new life with the idea of “preppy gone wrong,” using patchwork and deconstruction to make a punk-y but refined look. The brand says that, while it’s looking back at its history, it is also entering a more mature era and discovering what it means to grow up and have the confidence to show off their weirdness.

Photos courtesy of Rave Review

Gucci Is All About the Details

Creative director Sabato De Sarno doubled down on focusing on the little details and intelligently using colors like burgundy, moss, baby blue, pink, teal and canary yellow. For his first Fall 2024 ready-to-wear collection for the heritage Italian label, he continued to execute well-made tailored outerwear and dresses, combining lace, leather, sequins, wool and knits in an extremely luxurious way.

Photos courtesy of Gucci

GCDS Revisits Childhood Memories

This season, GCDS showed a sophisticated collection, called “Toys for Adults,” diving into creative director Giuliano Calza’s childhood memories and exploring feelings of nostalgia. On the actual clothing, those abstract concepts materialized as horror movie references to Dracula and Child’s Play on hoodies and sweater dresses and Hello Kitty buttons and prints on suiting. The show opened with innocent all-white looks and became darker and sexier, concluding with leather tailoring and babydoll dresses.

Photos courtesy of GCDS

Prada Gets a Little Coquette-ish

The first look that came down the Prada runway was a black shift dress covered completely in bows. The obvious inclination to reference the coquette trend on TikTok aside, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons say that this season, they’re attracted to the histories of garments and beauty norms. Traditionally masculine materials are made feminine, and clichés like bows and ruffles reassess femininity. And clothing today — like biker jackets, bomber jackets and knitwear – are shaped by history, they say.

Photos courtesy of Prada

Moschino Pays Tribute to Its Roots

For his Moschino debut, creative director Adrian Appiolaza plays homage to founder Franco Moschino’s wittiness. Appiolaza started the gig less than a month ago, as the previously appointed Davide Renne passed unexpectedly shortly after starting. Honoring the brand ended up looking like reinvented proportions and new fabrications, while keeping the playful energy of Moschino intact: knits are super shrunk or blown up, tailoring is deconstructed and prints like giant question marks remind us of Moschino’s tendency to question the meaning of it all.

Photos courtesy of Moschino