Raul Lopez Takes Luar to Rockefeller Center

Fittingly, conversation was abuzz from the moment show invites revealed its location far from Bushwick, at 50 Rockefeller Center. By the day of the show, the buzz had reached a palpable frenzy. As attendees jostled through confused tourists crowding the barricades for a glimpse, a cult cast of characters including Doechii, Tinashe, Bad Gyal and Ozuna descended on Midtown. And in the final moments before the show started, phones whipped out as Madonna, and finally, Ice Spice took their seats side-by-side.

Suddenly, as car-trunk subwoofers on either of the runway whirred with bass-heavy compositions by Aaron David Ross (ADR), show opener Alex Consani strode out ferociously in a trailing black corset and sheer tights. As black L-logo flags waved overhead and the message was clear: Let them all talk.

“Shutting down Rockefeller and having our world represented on the runway is such an incredible moment for us,” Lopez told PAPER. “All you can think about is that moment again and again — ‘En Boca Quedó.’”

Throughout 53 looks, models (and rapper Offset) took laps around the arena in Catholic-esque veils — including one stuffed with a bouquet of cash — and cocoon-like silhouettes, channeling Luar’s long standing concept of metamorphosis. Hooded floor-length gowns, ink-black python corsets and a bevy of Ana bags likewise recalled the brand’s previous collections.

But Lopez also built upon his now-infamous sartorial signatures: gender fluidity, nods to his Brooklyn-Dominican roots and general devil-may-care subversion, with new inspirations. Shiny, liquid metallic jackets and slimming cigarette trousers with detachable zippered elements appeared to reference the East Village punk rock scene of the 1970s. Punk, as a broader concept, reached a crescendo with an oversized jacket featuring pony hair in a warped leopard print.

As perhaps could be expected from the brand’s wider trajectory, Luar’s Spring 2025 collection also expanded on accessible basics in various black, tan and camel colorways primed for casual, head-to-toe looks. Matching jacket-pant sets played into logo mania with optical illusions of Luar text. And then there was office siren-core suiting, like a tan blazer with sheer trimmings that Luar studio manager Keyla Exclusa described to PAPER as “cuckoo crazy in all the right places.”

“I’ve always said that Luar is like the YMCA of fashion,” Lopez explains. “Luar the brand will always have a disruptive quality, and it’s also always been about accessibility. Our focus now is how to make the product accessible.”

Beyond garments, Spring 2025 also marked a greater emphasis on accessories as well as Luar’s inaugural foray into footwear with traditional clogs, Oxford loafers and kitten-heeled knee-high boots — all in leather to complement matching bags and belts. On the bag front, Lopez interpolated the Ana into a new medium-sized angular silhouette, the Yahaira, and a backpack, the Alexis. A new gold colorway for the Ana, released in a glitzy partnership with American Express, also debuted on the runway. The limited-edition AMEX Gold x Ana bag is available now in three metallics to complement Gold, Rose Gold and White Gold Card designs.

“Similar to Ana, Yahaira is such an iconic Dominican household name,” Lopez explains of the bag. “Introducing footwear this season was so exciting for us, and we really wanted to show the versatility that exists with the styles. They’ve been in development for some time now. I'm looking forward to the brand being a one-stop shop for any piece you'd need, down to your wallet.”

Amidst clearly strategic commercial maneuvers, Lopez’s secret weapon may be his unflagging commitment to his roots. It’s what’s earned him loyalty among the brand’s day-one followers and continues to propel him as the brand grows. And as it turns out, Beyoncé cameo or not, Luar proves it has the power to stay on the tip of every tongue.

Photography: Maxwell Vice