A special artistic project between French brand NORMANMABIRELARGUIER and model Raya Martigny offers a breath of chic air in a chaotic world of flashy social media fashion trends.
Presenting his first collection of ModaPortugal for which he won the grand prize, Norman Mabire-Larguier's latest collection is monochromatic couture that explores queer identity. "Fashion design is for me the better way to dive into myself, to the heart of my emotions and then to give shape to my inner world without concessions, to express through garments this unspeakable feeling of hindrance that has stifled me throughout my development as a queer person," he tells PAPER. "This feeling of restraint, of constraint; not being able to be truly myself. Each silhouette of this couture collection evokes, without being literal a stage of my personal journey, a metaphor for my intimate and progressive quest for freedom."
To bring the all-black collection to life, Mabire-Larguier tapped on-the-rise model Martigny, photographer Kévin Drelon and stylist Joana Dacheville on a series of portrais. See it all, below.
Tell me about the brand and how it explores queer identity, both conceptually and in the physical work.
Norman Mabire-Larguier: NORMANMABIRELARGUIER is a new contemporary couture house based in Paris. We create unique couture pieces made with French artisans renowned for their savoir-faire, using exclusively exceptional and eco-friendly materials. Fashion design is for me the better way to dive into myself, to the heart of my emotions and then to give shape to my inner world without concessions, to express through garments this unspeakable feeling of hindrance that has stifled me throughout my development as a queer person. This feeling of restraint, of constraint; not being able to be truly myself.
Each silhouette of this couture collection evokes, without being literal a stage of my personal journey, a metaphor for my intimate and progressive quest for freedom. As this innermost design process evolved, I felt the need to free more the body I was working on and its movements: heavy wools which were a shield to the body are getting thinner, lightweight silk organzas take more place and transparency lets the body be more visible. Coats as armors that constrained the body are getting more fluid and continue their transformations, to the point where they become pants. They fall off as a molt and reveal a chrysalis, a second skin that protect the blooming of an inner world.
What was it like showing your first collection at ModaPortugal?
Norman: It was an important first step for us. I have a niche approach to design and a view on couture that often divides: One might be uncomfortable with my work, while others understand it immediately and connect with it very strongly. I don’t rely on discourse nor moodboards to justify my work or find inspiration; the collection has to stand for itself and the garments must be center and have a true meaning. To develop a new and radical vision you have to accept that not everyone will like it. It was the case at ModaPortugal, and I’m grateful that my work has been awarded the Grand Prize.
We also had the opportunity to present this collection during the latest Hyères International Fashion Festival where it received a really great interest from insiders of the industry, happily followed by the release of a RTW capsule collection in collaboration with La Redoute.
How did this project with Raya Martigny come about?
Norman: This project is the result of an amazing artistic encounter that quickly led to the genuine desire to work together with Raya, photographer Kévin Drelon and stylist Joana Dacheville on a powerful images series of my first couture collection. Sharing the same passion for our crafts, we had a clear vision of how we wanted to translate my couture universe with both sensitivity and radicalness through photo and video, while putting the emphasis on the architecture of the silhouettes. Raya and Kévin were particularly influenced by the garments themselves, how they interact with the body and the emotions that come from this. We challenged ourselves to bring something new with this series. It was important to us that each image speaks for itself.
What is your relationship to each other, both personally and creatively?
Norman: Raya is a fashion icon! I admire her work and her incredible career. I immediately thought about Raya to embody the universe of my work for this project, and I was delighted and very excited that she agreed to bring it to life. Raya exudes a sensitive strength, a unique queerness, sensuality and elegance that echoes my research as a designer, and I definitely look forward to developing this creative relationship!
Raya Martigny: I discovered his work during the Hyères Festival in 2023. I always keep my eye on young designers. I felt really impressed by the poetry and approach to the body, a sort of Saint Laurent that comes straight from another planet. Norman’s silhouette has a beautiful sense of sensuality and will challenge you just enough to deconstruct your definition of beauty. You have multiple ways to embrace this world, and that will make you want to be a part of it.
The shoot we did was the first time I got to meet him, and I was so happy to see that he has such a meticulous way of working! I love to see the passion in every hand movement of the people that create the future of fashion. That makes him beautiful.
What energy are you embodying in the clothes and in the photos?
Raya: I often feel like a modern warrior, not by choice but this is my life. The fight is real, and you often feel alone. I feel that in the photos you can really see this part of me. There is a mix of emotions, sadness and determination. I’m often filled with both and try to craft my world before it becomes frustration.
What is both of your relationships to contemporary fashion?
Norman: I think contemporaneity is a key word here. Fashion seems to be currently struggling staying relevant to many people, therefore being contemporary, as there is a general denial of facing the realities of the current state of our world. There is much to reinvent both in terms of creation, industry and business as fashion has become a system that keeps falling into old patterns. It’s time to challenge the current state of fashion with love, meaning, radicalness and sensibility.
Raya: I think Norman said it all! But I will say that living in this world and being my authentic self makes me constantly curious about everything around me, allowing me to reinvent myself. We should start and encourage more conversations to get to understand each other. We sometimes forget to stop and enjoy the interactions that make us feel fulfilled and inspired. It’s sad because we are so lucky to have access to all of this magic. Fashion should take a step back, breathe, and move forward.
Photography: Kévin Drelon
Styling: Joana Dacheville
Art direction: Agathe Philippart
Image direction: Clément Grahn
Casting direction: Maria Pablo Feliz
Set design: Viola Vitali
Makeup: Jennifer Le Corre
Hair: Jean-Luc Amarin
Nails: Magda S.
Model agency: Go-See, Theo Fontaine
Director of photography: Nicolas Pereira
Production: Aurea Productions
Styling assistant: Léo Rouault
Set design assistant: Margot Lacombe
