There was a lot going on at the Milan shows last week, and most of it didn't even happen on the runway. From the surprise press conference Prada held announcing the appointment of Raf Simons as co-creative director to reports of the Coronavirus outbreak spreading to parts of Italy (which canceled numerous fashion events and shows like Giorgio Armani), the city made some the biggest headlines of fashion month so far.
Among the highlights were Gucci's show that transported the viewer behind the scenes, Moschino's modern-day Marie Antoinettes and Bottega Veneta's It-status accessories. The week also showcased Emilio Pucci's first collection under guest designer Christelle Kocher of Koché, who took the brand's colorful archive prints and combined them with her elevated sportswear aesthetic.
Another designer debut to take place was Walter Chiapponi at Tod's, who took the collection away from a strict focus on leather and into a more contemporary, relaxed route. Female sensuality was the prevailing theme for designers thanks to Fendi's sophisticated outerwear, Jil Sander's continued purism and DROMe's minimal offerings rooted in strong feminine energy at the brand's sophomore runway outing.
Sustainability was another focal point this season, with leftover materials from old leather supplies used in Ferragamo's upcycled footwear while its bags were made of deadstock exotic skins. While at Tod's, a patchwork dress was made from upcycled leather leftovers from old shoe materials. Diesel also kicked off its new sustainability series "Diesel Upcycling For," which partners with a different designer to create a capsule using deadstock materials from the brand's archives.
See, below, for the biggest trends that came out of Milan for Fall 2020.
Designers experimented with fringe in a variety of subversive ways, from the mop-like strips at Bottega Veneta (including its fringed clutches) to the dense car wash fabric hanging from skirts at Prada.
Whether applied in a maximalist head-to-toe look or affixed as a soft accent, the floral adornment was a recurring motif at shows like Moschino and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.
Contrasting lapels and collars were rendered in plush shearlings and cozy fleeces as seen at Missoni, Tod's and Agnona.
Luxe, rich velvets in deep jewel tones on everything from double-breasted suits to streamlined coats featured prominently at Marni, Etro and Sportmax.
Abstract patterns and kaleidoscopic prints in acid hues were melded together to form colorful contrasts such as Moncler 8 Richard Quinn's daisy/rainbow motifs and the reworked archive prints at Pucci.
Geometric shapes and textiles were assembled together to create delightful patchworks, from the colorful knits at Colville to the sumptuous leathers at Tod's.
Crisp whites featured aplenty in monochromatic looks such as the relaxed tailored suits at DROMe and structured feminine dresses at Fendi.