Maison Margiela's 'Nighthawk' Revives the Fashion Fantasy

Maison Margiela's 'Nighthawk' Revives the Fashion Fantasy

Dec 03, 2024


Earlier this year, Maison Margiela went viral for its Artisanal 2024 show. In a fashion world overtaken by the algorithm, the show stood out for its detailed and dramatic portrayal of couture pieces designed by the legendary John Galliano.

This past September, that process got well-documented in a stunning documentary directed by Sasha Kasiuha. At the Cinema La Balzac theatre in Paris, an audience gathered for the screening of Nighthawk, which blends eerie 1980s horror aesthetics with the immersive storytelling of haute couture.

“The name Nighthawk draws from creatures of the night — vampiric, looping through dimly-lit streets, much like we’re stuck in our routines,” Kasiuha tells PAPER.

At its heart, the film is about process and perspective. With striking contrasts between raw GoPro footage and polished cinematic moments, Kasiuha pulls back the curtain on John Galliano’s era-defining collection. The result is an artful exploration of high and low — gritty creativity juxtaposed with immaculate fashion. “In a world moving so fast, this is a reminder of how beautiful things take time,” Kasiuha says.

Nighthawk goes beyond the runway to create an almost interactive experience, thanks to a technique Kasiuha calls “dimensional splitting.” In one scene, the titular character seemingly steps out of the film and into the theater itself, collapsing the divide between audience and screen. “It blurs the boundary between film and reality, leaving viewers questioning what’s real.”

Since its debut, the film has found a cult following online, especially among young creatives. “Maison Margiela doesn’t just make films; they open their world up for everyone to see,” Kasiuha adds. With Nighthawk, Margiela and Kasiuha have created not just a film but a fully immersive statement piece — one that proves beauty, authenticity, and craftsmanship are worth the time they take to perfect.

Below, we sit down with Kasiuha to discuss the process of making Nighthawk and the current state of couture.

Tell me about the title "Nighthawk" — what does that mean?

The name "Nighthawk" draws inspiration from classic 1980s horror films. They are birds, creatures of the night, maybe vampires living in a loop under the dimly lit, seedy streets of Paris just like we are stuck in our daily lives and routines. Embodying the mysterious and watchful nature of a nocturnal character, through whose perspective the film unfolds. It reflects the collection's exploration of high and low, light and shadow painting, blurring the lines between reality and fiction.

Fashion is so fast-paced nowadays. Why do you think it was important to capture the process and details in this film?

Showing the creative process in detail really lets us see all the time and dedication that goes into making something truly unique, way beyond just fashion. In a world where everything’s moving so fast, it’s a reminder of how important it is to slow down and invest time in creating beautiful things—whether it’s through video, photography, or any kind of media. With this film, John Galliano gives us a bit of a reality check: even in a world dominated by algorithms and instant content, real beauty takes time, and authenticity can’t be rushed.

What was your favorite part about making this film?

One of the best parts of making this film was teaming up with John Galliano and the Maison Margiela team. Working together gave me an amazing look into their vast archives and let me dive deep into the materials and inspirations that shaped the Artisanal 2024 collection.

Also drawing inspiration from TikTok’s split-screen format. You know those TikToks where two totally unrelated videos play side by side, but you can’t help watching? This sparked the idea for a narrative structure that juxtaposes raw GoPro footage against polished cinematic scenes, highlighting contrasts between work-in-progress and finished product, high and low. Another thrilling aspect of creating Nighthawk was developing a technique we called “dimensional splitting.” Picture yourself in a theater watching the film. Suddenly, the Nighthawk character on screen steps into the real world of the theater, seamlessly transitioning from fiction to reality. He walks down the aisle as the movie continues, showing another scene with two characters—a couple in a mirrored theater directly opposite the real one. This parallel dimension blurs the line between the audience’s space and the on-screen narrative. As Nighthawk’s movements in the theater alter the actions of the couple in the mirrored scene, he reaches them. And vanishes in front of the audience, creating a haunting, immersive experience that leaves viewers questioning the boundary between film and reality.

How has the reception been for the film, and what are you working on now?

Working with Maison Margiela is something special—they don’t just make incredible films; they actually put them out there for everyone to see on social media and YouTube. It’s like they’re throwing open the doors to their world, giving young, aspiring creatives a chance to dive into John Galliano’s vision and see the Artisanal team’s craftsmanship up close.

The film has slowly but surely built a loyal fanbase, especially among fashion students and art enthusiasts. People are really connecting with how the collection is presented—just goes to show the lasting impact of the Artisanal 2024 Collection.

Right now, I’m working on a few personal projects, spending a lot of time researching, and also collaborating on another film.

Photos courtesy of Maison Margiela