Marine Serre, surely the most important young designer "of the moment," presented her fall collection today in the depths of a Parisian cellar. Most collections at her young label have focused on concepts of upcycled sustainability and what she calls "futurewear" — clothing that suits the Anthropocene. Her glorious fall show, titled "Radiation" and held in the midst of a February heat wave, leaned into the idea that soon we all shall die, with UV lights and hacker greens that implied a field of nuclear waste. And the facial accessories really brought it home.
Serre collaborated with R-Pur, a French company that makes anti-pollution masks, which feels terrifying and prescient. And for a striking look, she fitted a few models with glowing strips of light below their eyes. As they walked, they looked like sleek Terminators, cyborgs you could plug in with a USB.
The show notes described Serre's creatures as "morphing and transforming a weird new style. A new pluriversal mode, equipping them for embattling a hostile old world, while defending their delicate own." Hopefully by the time we go into the bunker I'll be able to get one of her turtlenecks.