The Biggest Fashion Moments to Come in 2023 (and Questions We Still Need Answered)
Fashion

The Biggest Fashion Moments to Come in 2023 (and Questions We Still Need Answered)

With everyone's OOO settings turning off this week, settling into a new year offers a moment to look ahead toward what's in store for fashion in 2023 — as well as ponder some still unanswered questions.

From big designer debuts to glitzy fashion exhibitions, the industry has plenty of all-important save-the-dates on their calendar already. Here's what everyone is anticipating the most in the next 12 months.

After a wildly successful, sometimes controversial tenure at Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee is heading back to his native England to take over Burberry as Chief Creative Officer, replacing Riccardo Tisci. All eyes will be on his first show for the brand during London Fashion Week on February 20. Lee is expected to really lean into the brand's British codes and sensibility, an idea that was lost at times under its previous designer.

“Burberry flies the flag for Britishness and for the UK and for culture," he told Vogue. "So we have to use our platforms because we have a responsibility to communicate those things. I don’t know if this is the right way to say this, but more than surprising people, I really would like them to see the new vision and feel reassured — like, ‘Oh, yeah, this makes sense: This is what Burberry should be.’”

Another buzzy name helming a new label is Harris Reed, the British-American designer who graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2020 and is known for his theatrical, gender-fluid designs. With only a few seasons of showing at London Fashion Week under his belt, Reed will debut his first collection as creative director of Nina Ricci "in early 2023." It will be Reed's first foray into ready-to-wear after working solely in demi-couture. The French house was previously designed by the duo Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, who left to focus on their own label Botter.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin also got a new job at the end of last year, taking over as creative director for Ann Demeulemeester, the Belgian fashion label known for its dark, severe and elegant creations. (Its namesake designer has long since retired from fashion.) LdSS has slowly been gaining traction over the years particularly with the LGBT community for its skimpy yet polished clothes with a sex-positive appeal. His first collection for the brand will debut during Paris Fashion Week in March.

Ever since Jean Paul Gaultier pivoted to a guest designer format for its seasonal haute couture showcases, the brand has seen some of the strongest collections in recent memory, including those from Y/Project's Glenn Martens and Balmain's Olivier Rousteing. The next one from Haider Ackermann, known for his sensual tailoring and Timothée Chalamet friendship, has many fashion fans excited and is expected to be the most anticipated of couture week this month.

The next Met Gala will honor the work of the late Karl Lagerfeld (which faced some backlash upon the announcement), its first single-designer retrospective since 2017's Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between. The exhibit, which opens May 5, will survey his 65-year career at houses such as Patou, Chloé, Fendi and, of course, Chanel. The gala will take place May 1, though how guests are expected dress remains unclear.

Plus... some lingering fashion questions for 2023.

What's Next for Gucci Without Alessandro Michele?

The bombshell of the last year was undoubtedly Alessandro Michele leaving Gucci after seven years. When will they announce his replacement? Gucci's next show fall next week during the men's collections in Milan, which is expected to be designed by the in-house studio team. Will that show mark a transition into a new aesthetic era of Gucci or will it be a placeholder until a new designer is named? And where will he go?

How Will Balenciaga Recover?

The fallout over Balenciaga's controversial campaigns at the end of last year was a PR nightmare for the brand, who's since released several statements, apologies and plans of action. On December 27, the brand uploaded its first Instagram post since the controversy: a compilation of archival Cristobal Balenciaga footage with "best wishes for the new year" (the comments were turned off, however). How will they start on the communications front in 2023? Who will be the first big celebrity to wear the brand on the red carpet/street? Will they still a release their pre-collection lookbook? Are they still showing in Paris in March? Will Demna stay on?

The LV Men's Conundrum

It's been over a year since Virgil Abloh's untimely death, and Louis Vuitton has been in no rush to find a new menswear artistic director, though rumors swirl that there have been several notable candidates interviewing for the job, including Grace Wales Bonner. Will 2023 be the year a new replacement is announced?

Raf Simons' Future

He closed his influential namesake label after 27 years, leading many to speculate what his next move will be. For now, he remains co-creative director of Prada, with many wondering if this means Miuccia will retire soon. After all, there have also been management shakeups on the business side, with a new CEO for Prada and Prada Group as a whole (Miuccia and her husband Patrizio stepped down from their Co-CEO duties last year).

Riccardo Tisci's Next Move

Rumors are still swirling over Riccardo Tisci's next move. Since leaving Burberry, only one update has come out: a custom look he designed for Michaela Coel under his own label, which went on hiatus 17 years ago. Is he intending to revive the label sometime this year? Or will another brand scoop him up?

Phoebe Philo, Where Art Thou?

This time last year we were promised more details about ex-Celine creative director Phoebe Philo's new eponymous label, which has yet to materialize or really have any new updates.