No Sesso’s Spring 2023 show at The Shed was a family affair, kickstarting the events of New York Fashion Week earlier this month. Alongside lead designers Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph was a backstage crew of artists from The Angelito Collective, who brought their expertise to the glam and photo team to make this entire production perfection.
According to Co-Founder Demiyah Perez, “The Angelito Collective is a creative agency that highlights and uplifts queer and trans POC artists.” There are now six members, she says: “Myself, Angel, Kam, Sinn, Alfonso and Ramie. We initiated the collective as a creative haven and sanctuary, where we intentionally document trans history and art for future and present generations.”
For the collective, working backstage under two powerhouse designers at No Sesso was a liberating experience. “The reason we don’t see ourselves reflected properly in fashion is because we’re seldom the ones making the decisions,” Kam continues, emphasizing the importance of their involvement.
“No Sesso is an empowering and risqué art brand that is all encompassing.” Randolph says of the brand's origins. “This season we slowed down the pace of artisanal work and focused on garments that we thought a lot of other people would want to wear. We booked Angelito because they are a part of our ecosystem and we want to be able to provide more opportunities within the production. They are all very talented in many different ways.”
Iconic No Sesso silhouettes returned for this collection, like their chord dresses, which “are made to be sexy and chic and have convertible access and ability to shift in look” according to Randolph. The brand also debuted a brand new bag that Davis reveals “will be available soon.”
No Sesso is truly for the girls, and it's rare to find designers that allow young artists to team up with them. To elaborate on this season's beauty process, we interviewed lead makeup artist and Angelito member Sinn.
Tell the readers about yourself in case they don't know.
My name is Sinn. My pronouns are she/her/cheetah. I’m originally from Philly, but I reside in Harlem as of now and I was the key makeup artist for the recent No Sesso Spring 2023 show on the opening night of NYFW.
What is The Angelito Collective?
The Angelito Collective to me is, what I consider to be, a home base for queer trans POC artists to be able to take up the space we rightfully deserve. If people aren’t allowing us into these spaces, we’re going to make our own and turn it out the way it needs to be.
"If people aren’t allowing us into these spaces, we’re going to make our own and turn it out the way it needs to be."
What was your process for designing the looks this season?
It started off with receiving info on the inspiration of the collection. It was giving underwater. So I looked at the colors on a mussel shell, as well as the colors of a pearl and tried to incorporate that into the eyes. I wanted to take inspiration from the makeup I did last year, but add a twist to them to make it fresh and new. So lots of pink blush, as well as yellow highlighted inner corners which resemble the color of a Timberland boot because, when I think of No Sesso, I think of a heeled Tim boot. Another reference was The Rainbow Fish with the silver lips, as well as a muted gray half cut crease to imitate gills on the eyes. It makes sense when I hear it in my head and when I’m actually doing it on a face and you can actually see that it gave.
What were your go-to products this season?
My go-to products were the [Milk Makeup] Hydro Grip Set + Refresh Spray to give the skin a dewy glow all over, as well as the Milk Makeup Color Chalk in Hula Hoop to press on the eyes and lips to give that pearly iridescent quality.
Why is it important for trans and queer POC to be head makeup artists in this industry?
It’s important to me to be able to see people like me at the head of glam at shows or even on set because we deserve to be seen. We’re actual people and deserve the platforms that are rarely given to us. Also, I know as a model I’m not really comfortable with people touching my face and understanding structure as well as proportions. Personally, I know that when I’m on set with a doll or someone from the community that understands how we should be represented, it makes working not even feel like it. It feels like I’m ki'ing with my homegirls and I think that’s what I really strive to do.
Photography: Maxwell Vice