Helmut Lang may be considered one of the most influential designers of our generation, but his eponymous brand is undergoing a rebirth. Yesterday marked the runway debut of newly appointed designer-in-residence Shayne Oliver (held at the sadly deserted Pearl River Mart in SoHo), and he delivered on all fronts, emphasizing Lang's signature sleek edge and incorporating the street vibe he masters at Hood by Air, while also giving the house a slightly fetishistic twist. Boots were outfitted with chains, plastic bra and underwear topped normal jeans, and business suits got geometric cutouts in all of the right (or wrong) places. The collection never completely loses any of Lang's signature elegance, but the new designer certainly takes it to a new world.

Oliver is even branching the fashion house out into tour merch, creating a line of tees and hoodies emblemed with autumn tour slogans and jagged portraits, the first drop of which happened today. Get your merch at helmutlang.com and see every look from the Spring 2018 collection below.

Photos via BFA