The starting point for Jonathan Cohen's Spring 2020 collection began with an image of a traditional Mexican serape blanket made to resemble an American flag, but with multicolored rainbow stripes. Cohen, whose family is originally from Mexico City, said in his show notes that while growing up, the line between Tijuana and his hometown of San Diego just didn't exist. His collection, then, serves as an expression of "oneness" and a "borderless existence," concepts readily noticeable in crafty hand-drawn Dia de los Muertos skulls and crocheted knits. His childhood summers in Acapulco and teenage years in La Jolla are also evident in longboard-shaped embroideries and a California grizzly bear. In light of our politically-fraught times, this collection felt deeply authentic and personal. Floral arrangements and a live vocalist playing the piano in the intimate studio of artist Caio Fonseca made it all the more special. Here's everything else you need to know about the collection.
The image of the Mexican blanket manifested itself in the couple of looks in the collection. These crafty pieces, with their frayed edges and crafty rainbow stripes, were designed by artisans in Mexico City.
Pieces and panels of dresses and other garments were tried together to form exaggerated knots. Some of the looks utilized these techniques to form a cascading, tiered effect.
Cohen used organic cotton denim washed with non-toxic enzymes (the brand says they want to be continuously conscious of their environmental impact). These were utilized in paneled midi-dresses, patchwork denim pants, and jean jackets.
Floral smocks and skirts came in A-line silhouettes that flared toward the bottom. Their humble appeal and simple charm served to highlight the special embroideries and hand-woven techniques.
Hourglass tunic tops, trousers and suits were weaved in floral jacquard patterns. The multicolored stripes and shades of blue looks resplendent against the modest silhouettes.