Simon Spurr's August Vision

Martin Marks

With the third season of Simon Spurr's eponymous luxury sportswear line came a more somber mood, as yesterday's show at Exit Art began with a few of Maxence Cyrin's staccato piano notes, seeming to herald the black, charcoal gray, and navy that was to come.
The immaculately tailored collection had an equestrian theme, from the distressed leather cavalry jackets with gold buttons, to the gray flannel vests paired with long fingerless gloves, to the horsehair tassles -- perhaps talismans -- hung from the waists of several outfits. Bright amber hues, as found in a sweater -- thick knit and with a cable-roll neck -- or a twill parka, further refined the autumnal element of Spurr's collection, yet without interrupting the melancholic overtones he so successfully established. Indeed, working with such a minimalistic palate can be daunting, but Spurr's true excellence could be seen in the collection's proportions, cuts and blocking. Not a line, a stripe, or a hem seemed to wander from his august vision.

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