Before his highly influential Givenchy era (and way before his most recent stint at Burberry), Riccardo Tisci briefly had his own eponymous line, which debuted way back in 2004.
At the time, fashion critic Sarah Mower called Tisci "a name worth watching" after seeing his 2005 Milan presentation-turned-fashion-funeral, which was held in a derelict factory late at night complete with church incense, wooden crosses and a blonde virgin (themes he would explore throughout his successful, goth-tinged Givenchy run).
His label came to a halt that year when then-Givenchy CEO Marco Gobbetti brought him on as creative director after citing his potential and romantic, elegant vision. Now, 17 years later, Tisci is unveiling the first design under that eponymous label. The Italian designer created a custom look for actress Michael Coel — an all black matte stretch silk bodysuit with a lace skirt and tights — for the London premiere of her new film Black Panther: Wakanda Forever.
The gown is the result of a "close partnership" between Tisci, Coel and her mother, who shared influences and references to inform this moment. It's the first move Tisci has made since he parted ways with Burberry in September. No word yet if he plans to relaunch the brand in a more official capacity.
"When Michaela approached me to work together, we knew this premiere in London, a city so close to both of us, would be the best moment to bring our conversations to life in a very special way," Tisci said in a statement. "It felt like the perfect time to celebrate Riccardo Tisci, the House that brought me so many opportunities and which led me to where I am today.”
Coel added: “Riccardo is my amore. To become a part of this moment in which his career comes full circle is a nourishing experience. Sono grato. Having Riccardo welcome a creative collaboration with my mother, who has made many of my dresses since my birth, displays a remarkable confidence and humility in his craft.”
Photography: Rowben Lantion