Restaurant Review: The Bedford

JULIE BESONEN
The Bedford is a hideaway that everyone should know about. Chef Blake Joyal's New American food is amazing, the craft beer and organic/biodynamic wines wisely selected, and the playlist so compelling -- Love and Rockets, Television, Nancy Sinatra, Bryan Ferry -- that you almost don't want to talk. The rustic, sprawling space (two rooms, two bars) used to be Sound Fix Records so it's good that music remains a priority here. The restaurant looks handmade, with wide planked floors, wooden benches, repurposed desks serving as tables, and stage lights facing the walls and sending out a soft glow. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (the kitchen closes at 2 a.m. and the bar serves until 4 a.m.), it's breezy and welcoming during the day and dark and sexy at night. The menu changes frequently but always covers the meat, fish and poultry bases. It's not cheap -- this is the "new" Williamsburg, after all -- but you're paying for quality. Joyal's fried squid ($9) is like no other, nestled with candy-like fried olives, thin slices of fried lemon and fresh herbs. His creamy tomato soup ($7) was silky and had a good hit of acidity, made with a blend of red and yellow tomatoes that were cooked in Riesling. And the burger! It's fat and juicy, layered with gorgonzola and bacon, served with crisp, skin-on fries and worth its $15 price tag. The escarole salad ($9) was huge and showered with minced bacon, making it into a treat instead of something you eat just because it's healthy. Other standouts included an incredibly refreshing mixed melon salad ($11) with feta and arugula, and mild black grouper ($22) with marinated sweet peppers, lima beans and polenta. Housemade gelato and sorbet, in flavors like blueberry and green apple, are the way to go for dessert as long as the warm weather holds.

 

The Bedford

110 Bedford Ave.

Williamsburg, Brooklyn

(718) 302-1002


Photo from Yelp

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