Restaurant Review: Seersucker


New Yorkers have had access to stellar ramen and top-notch uni panini for a while, but, until very recently, winning pimento cheese was crazy hard to come by. Thankfully, Seersucker on Smith Street in Brooklyn has the goods, and its creamy-but-hearty rendition is served as part of what must be one of the most alluring appetizer offerings in the city: a Southern snack tray. Along with the Velveeta-hued spread, you get pickled okra, country ham pâté, deviled eggs, crackers, and crudité (for $15). Though the eggs lack the desired vinegary kick, the rest is plenty enticing -- enough so that you have to remind yourself to save room for the next course. The entrées veer in a more refined-Southern direction -- one that meshes well with the space, which has none of the Steel Magnolias sweetness of other local down-home spots like Tipsy Parson and The Redhead. Instead, there's a pseudo-industrial whitewashed aesthetic, with jumbo jars of pickles delivering the pops of color that vases and paintings might elsewhere. And on the plates: Flaky trout in a brown-butter vinaigrette sits atop grits ($20), pork belly mingles with pinto beans and collard greens ($19), and the smell of the cast-iron skirt steak ($22) fills the room, making you question your order no matter how tasty it is. If you can't commit to a full-fledged dessert, consider picking at a biscuit box ($8 for 3, $14 for six), served with butter and two preserves that would be at home on a cheese plate.

329 Smith St.
Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn
(718) 422-0444

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