Restaurant of the Week: Pies 'N' Thighs

Leslie Pariseau

Pies 'n' Thighs means women. And pies. And fried things. If Williamsburg were more like the small southern town that Pies 'n' Thighs' comfort food and country decor evokes, we'd all be drag racing down Driggs Avenue on Friday nights to park around the block and canoodle over Thighs' boxes of fried catfish ($10), coleslaw and chocolate pudding pie. But this is Brooklyn, which means we find ourselves on a Saturday morning biking under the JMZ to the corner of South 4th, camping out at enamel top tables and munching dimply, crisp donuts ($2) that leave a cinnamon-sugar 'stache. Come evening, the newly relocated diner is redolent of porky perfume and piquant collards ($4) -- the kind whose vinegary tang will follow you to bed and out the door again in the morning. Budweisers ($3) and sweet tea ($2.50) sweat among plates of golden glazed biscuits ($2), hush puppies ($4) and a big salad ($10) that would make Elaine Benes proud. Bandana-clad and tong wielding, owners Sarah Buck, Carolyn Bane and Erika Geldzahler are (wo)manning the stoves after returning from a two-year hiatus. Not for nothing, anticipation has proved their pies better than remembered -- Nilla wafered banana cream, puffy-crusty apple, girdle-packing peanut putter and a dreamy coconut cream ($4.50/slice or $30/pie) were shared one evening among three not dissimilar women who never bothered with the silverware.
Pies 'n' Thighs
166 S. 4th St.
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
(347) 529-6090

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