Restaurant of the Week: Gus & Gabriel Gastropub

Tracey Ceurvels

At the newly opened gastropub, Gus & Gabriel, there is much to be admired from award-winning chef Michael Psilakis, that is, if you're on board with his aim to create food his three-year old son Gabriel would love. And what adult doesn't love comfort food sometimes, especially when it's taken up a few notches by a skilled chef? Plus, the bar carries vast types of beer and varieties of whiskey, which can be ordered in a steel flask. Gus is Psilakis's late father, and his and Gabriel's likenesses are cast in the T-shirts worn by the friendly waiters. As you enter the casual, welcoming dining room, say hello to Harris, the suit of armor. The diner-style menu includes a grilled cheese BLT ($10.95), meatloaf ($11.95) and a cheeseburger decadently topped with bacon and an over-easy fried egg ($13.95). There is heat -- subtle, not overwhelming -- contained in many of the dishes. Mac & cheese makes an appearance, albeit with a Mexican twist of jalapeño béchamel ($7.50). House-made hot dogs (i.e. no nitrates) are topped with chili and cheese ($12.95). Sweet corn is paired in a soup (a standout dish) with jalapeños ($5.95), and jalapeños also appear in the popular tater tots ($3.95). Everything is homemade, down to the tartar sauce that comes with the crab cake ($7.95). The thought of ordering a float might seem childish, but here it's not only apt, it's a must. For the black cherry chocolate float, scoops of chocolate ice cream (again, homemade) arrive in a parfait dish into which the waiter pours micro-brewed soda. Alcoholic versions are also available. Happily, it's the kind of place where you can enjoy sipping a float out of a big straw without feeling silly. Cash only.

Gus & Gabriel
222 W. 79th St.
(212) 362-7470

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