Paco Rabanne’s Industrial Chainmail Gets a Decorative Update

Mesh Together

Paco Rabanne is known for its signature chain-link material fashioned into slinky ensembles and futuristic accessories. In his spring 2019 collection for the 52-year-old label, creative director Julien Dossena cut that characteristic mod sexiness with Victorian wallpaper florals, elaborate paisley, and extravagant brocade. Chainmail, crafted into dresses, apron skirts, camisoles, adopted the patterns and tonality of these materials, giving it a decadent, dandy vibes.

Graphic Content

T-shirts emblazoned with the words "lose yourself" and "mysticism" were covered in Peter Saville-designed graphics that resemble tie dying. The English art director and graphic designer — who recently redesigned Burberry's logo and archive monogram — added a psychedelic twist to the lineup with old-world fabrics and finishes.

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Rough Meets Refined

Chains, used as dress straps, necklaces, and trimmings on seams and necklines, brought industrial weight to delicate fabrics. Elsewhere, spherical buttons (sometimes more than 20 in a row) made decorative fabrics a smidge grungy.