NYFW Day 2: Christian Siriano's Splashy Front Row, 10 Years of Eckhaus Latta and More

Of course, he’s built his whole brand around celebrity. What’s more intriguing though is how unexpected the mic of ​these famous faces are each season. Sure, there are some predictable names like Drew Barrymore and Aquaria, but seating them next to Ava Max, Hannah Waddingham from Ted Lasso, Slayyyter, Susan Sarandon and Alicia Silverstone? A recipe prime for entertainment outlet fodder. 

Siriano friend and muse Coco Rocha, alongside Karen Elson, provided much of the theatrics in their billowing confections and hooded frocks. But for the most part, it was less about drama and more about wardrobe foundations — he’s never played this much with denim, for instance, and latex looks dominated much of the first half. If his ideas were a bit all over the place (it felt like seven collections in one), his willingness to experiment with something other than heavy ball gowns throughout was a pleasant surprise.

Jason Wu’s front row was less flashy and frantic, but that didn’t take away from the impact some of his looks conveyed on the runway. Three gowns in particular — in striking shades of emerald, fuchsia and marigold — had the kind of emotional resonance that extended well beyond the set and into Instagram DMs and group chats. 

Wu dedicated the collection in honor of Jinxy, one of his two cats (the other being Peaches) who passed away recently. Combined with his inspiration this season of ‘50s fashion illustrations, it was another exercise in craftsmanship and raw beauty, something he’s been consistent about since the very beginning.

The hottest ticket of the week was arguably Eckhaus Latta’s show, which marked the brand’s 10-year anniversary. The bi-coastal label, which celebrated with an afterparty at The Standard, East Village afterward, chose a fitting setting to mark the occasion: the former Essex Market. With its empty shelves and industrial feel, it mimicked the gritty and crafty ethos EL is known for.

Of course, no celebration would be complete without bringing back the names and faces that have been championing the brand for the past 10 years, including Paloma Elsesser and Hari Nef, who gave the collection’s signature slicing and dicing, skimpy cuts and frayed edges a homecoming feel.

Speaking of homecoming, Brandon Maxwell was especially nostalgic this season — not with the clothes, per se, but with his familial bonds. He’s long credited his grandmother with inspiring his foray into fashion, as his show notes, which told a story about love, generations and dress-making, made abundantly clear.

It’s a recurring thread of in his work, no matter how much the aesthetics have evolved (monochromatic ball gowns in black and ivory to preppy American sportswear to somewhere in between). The poignancy of this season’s backstory was most felt in the little details: crushed and crinkled satins, feathered shawls and cozy wrap coats evoked the same intimate feel as the film of Maxwell’s childhood and family that opened the show.