In many ways, the Spring 2021 men's collection shown this morning by Miuccia Prada marks the end of an era for the iconoclastic designer. For more than two decades she's held the creative reins all by herself at Prada, single-handedly changing the course of fashion along the way.
But for today's presentation, she would take her final bow as a solo act as she'll be joined by new Co-Creative Director Raf Simons going forward. (Their debut joint collection is still slated to take place in September, for now.)
So what did her solo swan song amount to? In a nutshell, going back to the very essence of the brand. It doubled down on all of the Prada codes and references from its beginnings in the late '80s and '90s — clean lines, minimalism, workwear and plenty of nylon.
"The silhouette for men is sharp and narrow, fitted, with technologically innovative fabrications of Prada nylon and stretch materials juxtaposed with traditional suiting," the brand said in a statement. "For women, the same fabrics are given couture volumes and treatments."
Nope it reminded me very much of Prada fall winter 1988 her first rtw https://t.co/DwlIqAv3LO
Fashion influencer Bryanboy astutely noted how the collection contained many similarities to Prada's first-ever ready-to-wear collection for Fall 1988, right down to how the models' hand is holding the coat's lapels together. (Coincidentally or not, Simons' models performed the same hand gesture for his final Jil Sander collection.)
Even the '50s-inspired skirts from her earlier collections, with their A-line shape and bow fastening, resembled today's throwback offerings. The simple black nylon looks, meanwhile, recall the classic sporty Prada vibe recently made famous by Frank Ocean's security guard outfit at the Met Gala.
In lieu of a live runway show, the mostly black-and-white lineup was presented digitally through a series of short films by five different creatives, among them Juergen Teller and longtime Simons collaborator Willy Vanderperre. "It was an honor to be asked to photograph and film Miuccia's last collection," Teller said. "I enjoyed looking at Miuccia's vision and trying to make sense of it as honest and direct as possible."
See, below, to watch the full video for Prada men's Spring 2021, titled "Multiple Views."