Menyelek Rose has been known in the New York fashion scene for fresh, oddball silhouettes and pops of color in his designs. But for Fall 2022, he's decided to take his label in a different, darker direction.

"This collection [is] mostly using black, grey and white. I felt it was appropriate," the NYC-based designer told PAPER. "In a large way, I was trying to communicate the dark year that we had. I named the collection 'sad lad' because last year brought me such sadness on many levels but through the dark is light."

His socially distanced show on Saturday night opened with his twin sister, Makeda Rose, standing atop a table in the middle of the room, singing Rachmaninoff's "Vocalise" in a high, classical, angelic soprano. When she finished, she fell and a darkness came over the runway.

The music changed to techno, and models walked out in outfits made with a mix of dark, distressed fabric, flowing tulle, and leather — which made for a great contrast to the colorful yarn hair. The models were also wearing abstract geometric headpieces and shoes printed with Menyelek's signature "M" logo.

"I wanted to create these bold shapes and cutting slits on the shoulder of and trench coat and cutting holes in the arm for an open elbow allowing the person wearing many options to wear it," Menyelek said.

This is Menyelek's 10th show in New York and will be his last. He told PAPER, "I am transitioning to move my company to China in the next 2 years." See all the looks from the show, below.

Video courtesy of Michael Morales
Photos courtesy of Josh Colón

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