It's been 10 years since Mary Katrantzou burst onto the fashion scene. For her spring 2019 show, the runway became a memorandum for a decade worth of designs. While that took the form of a "greatest hits" array of looks referencing past collections on the runway, it was a curtain opening to reveal a mob of mannequins dressed in her most famous garments that truly capped off the celebration of her already iconic career.
Naming a collection "Collection" may be aggressively meta but for Katrantzou, it was a fitting title for her runway show. As with her 180-piece retrospective at the Dallas Contemporary earlier this year, the garments she crafted for the spring 2019 season were a hodgepodge of found objects from collections past.
Art, stamps, perfume, and symbols were printed ad infinitum like surrealist dreamscapes on streamlined skirts, frilled dresses, and billowing silhouettes throughout the show's dozens of looks. Among the highlights, a slim, stamp-patterned dress and a bulbous but beautifully crafted jacket and skirt with black outline trimming seemed ready to go from the runway to a museum.
You're My Butterfly
Crazy Train and Asia O'Hara would both shed a tear over the sheer number of butterflies that graced Katrantzou's spring 2019 collection. Printed on skirts, shirts, and gracefully flowing dresses, the insect of choice for the Greek designer was everywhere.
While the designer's iconic lampshade shirts from her Spring '11 collection didn't make a comeback, the same can't be said for her perfume-bottle dresses. In a fitting finale, the iconic dresses inspired by bottles of Eternity, Pleasures and Shalimar perfume that launched her career 10 years ago were repurposed in an unforgettable metal mesh with crystal embroidery.