Marcelo Gutierrez may not be the most seasoned makeup artist on the NYFW calendar, but the young creative has been turning some heads for his visionary take on makeup. After creating some of the most talked about beauty looks earlier this year, Gutierrez returned with an even bolder and experimental mix of makeup looks for Spring 2020.
From Puppets & Puppets to Barragán, the Bogota-native's impact was seen across the catwalks of multiple emerging designers. Not only has he quickly become a go-to for editorial and runway makeup, but Gutierrez was also the talent behind one of this season's wildest beauty trends: Hickies.
In talking with PAPER, Gutierrez breaks down the inspiration, the process, and the products behind his shows at NYFW Spring 2020.
Inspiration: "The beauty for the show celebrates color individuality with classic effortless luminous skin that's been exaggerated with exuberant paint, swarovski sparkles and lustrous lips lined to perfection. I wanted to embrace the collection's use of different textures by using a variety of pigments and paints on the face."
The Process: In total the show had six beauty looks. The main look consisted of clean skin, clean eyes, orange blush and brown or red lined lips. A couple of the models had a more dramatic look that consisted of clean skin topped with a splatter of cream color mixed in with thick lotion to mimic acrylic paint's texture. We put that over one eye and spontaneously highlighted the face with swarovski crystals that complimented the color. Two models had a makeup look that was inspired by drag, Pater Sato and Erte."
Inspiration: "The collection was looking into the royal Romanovs, Russia and American Psycho. For beauty, I wanted to reflect the stark coldness I associate with Russia and American Capitalism. Blood sucking collusion and vampiric desire for more."
The Process: "We elongated everyone's eyes using Pat McGrath brown liner by pulling both the inner and outer corners out. We then used fleshy pink, purples and reds from the Kryolan bruise palette to exaggerate raw skin around the eye and eye bags. With the Elizabeth Arden eight hour cream, we gave the face a wet, teary, seductive shine. The lips were kept clean and highlighted with a dose of bloody red to intrigue a hungry mortal. A few other faces had the same look but with a completely white powdered face that was met with a contrasting asymmetrical red lip. Emily Schubert was there to help add the fake blood to some of the looks."
Inspiration: "Barragán is sexy and subversive. It's smart and intentional. The makeup is meant to feel authentic and mimic a hot summer night out leaving the club at sunrise. We celebrate pleasure, sex and indulgence with a seductive eye and plenty of delicious hickies."
The Process: "Sweaty and wet shades of brown, mustard, tan and black are used to create a sultry eye. Mustard and nude lips are wet and kissable. Heavy black mascara with black liner. We oiled everyone up and gave them realistic hickies. Hickies are fashionable and everyone should enjoy them. The world is ending and you should give into your hedonism."
Inspiration: "'90s grunge and glam. Simple skin, cool tones and weathered but beautiful skin. Sexy."
The Process: "We kept the skin really clean and breathable. Covered any discoloration on the eyelids with concealer but exaggerated the eye bags with my favorite bruise palette to give the impression of a tired look. Intense chunky heavy black mascara was used on everyone with a simple black liner at the upper lash line on some. The show was sponsored by Noto botanics, so we prepped the skin using their oils and moisturizer then finished the look using their lip color in Genet for a '90s deep red brown oily lip."
Inspiration: "LRS is a brand that has a close relationship with punk, shape, graphics and an attitude. For the makeup, we kept it extremely authentic to a lifestyle and didn't want it to feel too editorial. A combination of punk and glam."
The Process: "The makeup look was really clean, and fresh skin. Nothing overdone and we used a combination of black liquid liners and creams to create a variety of graphic yes, lips and brows. Cold. Harsh. Lived-in. Fun. It's youth in a bottle — a don't give a fuck approach to glamour. Intentional, but spontaneous."
Photography: Eric Lopez