A serene, aquatic oasis served as the backdrop for Longchamp's Spring 2020 show. Held outdoors at the Hearst Plaza in Lincoln Center in perfect 73 degree weather, the location resembled a Paris Fashion Week setting with its giant courtyard landscape and infinity pool placed smack in the middle. This was creative director Sophie Delafontaine's third ready-to-wear show in NYC for the heritage brand, and it was a continuation of her effortless, French-cool-girl aesthetic beloved by fashion and film heavyweights like Kate Moss, Kendall Jenner, and Julianne Moore, who were all sitting front row. "We have a strong '70s DNA but I wanted to mix it up with a more contemporary inspiration," Delafontaine told PAPER backstage after the show. Here's everything else you need to know about the collection.
To balance the feminine dresses and fluid shapes, Delafontaine relied on bold, graphic stripes and lines. "It's all about mixing and matching different elements," she said. "It's not just about pretty long dresses."
The fitted silhouette of the high-waisted shorts with the loose, boxy shapes of the tops were one of the several focal points of the collection. Hot pants came in multicolored stripes and were paired with a skinny leather belt.
Streamlined dresses in leather and suede are the result of years of work in handbags with the materials, according to Delafontaine. "For ready-to-wear I tried to find another way to work with [leather and suede] in a very soft, light way," she sayd. "I like the fact that leather can be like cashmere — elegant and refined."
The trio of looks that opened the show, led by Kaia Gerber, involved zipped black nylon jackets and footwear inspired by what Delafontaine calls boxing shoes. "The idea was to bring a sporty and casual spirit mixing with the fluidity and femininity of the long dresses," she explained.
Some of the more feminine, romantic looks included goddess dresses with color gradients and gladiator shoes. Each of them were belted at the waist and cut with intricate pleating.
Photos courtesy of BFA and Longchamp