He's Got the Beat: Phillip Lim Channels the Beat Generation for His Spring 2010 Presentation

Luigi Tadini

The fourth floor of an enormous loft on West 25th Street was transformed into an art gallery, of sorts, for the Phillip Lim SS10 presentation earlier this afternoon. In the middle of the gargantuan concrete space, a make-shift “artist” apartment was constructed allowing revelers to peek-in and admire, in a most voyeuristic manner, the romantic new creations of the celebrated young designer. For spring, Lim found inspiration in the glorified and poetic Beat Generation. The tableaux vivant of perfectly coiffed male models showcased an extensive line-up of separates, accessories and eyewear. Prominent among the designs were pleated pants, sometimes in high-waisted belted incarnations, and other times in ankle length varieties, oat colored jackets and overcoats, a handful of Lim’s trademark double breasted blazers, and of course a selection of tissue weight cashmeres. The subdued palette of pinks, blues, and cobblestone were paired with youthful proportions. On the whole, it was a well defined and commercial collection but one that never lost its conceptual heft. The accessories were all baptized after 1950s poets such as the “Donohue” shades, the “Ginsberg” boots and the “Oliver” belt. It was a varied collection in terms of materials, featuring everything from seersucker and jersey to cashmere and leather. The unexpected closing tableaux consisted of a head-to-toe admiral blue look alongside a boldly floral suit, breathing poetic life to the grand finale. Among the standouts of today’s show were a navy cashmere tank, a tan high-collared overcoat, a grey anorak and the undeniably beautiful Dubuffet print trio.

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