Bar of the Week: Black Mountain Wine House

On a recent midsummer mid-week visit to Jim Mamary's (Patois, Schnack, Pacifico) newest venture, Black Mountain Wine House, several patrons lounged-feet up, flip-flops off-in Adirondack chairs on the bar's front porch while sipping red wine and nibbling on cheese and salami. Inside, the mood was merry, the lights were dim and the white-brick walls coupled with the dark wood tables and mismatched chairs gave the place a rustic, slightly Amagansett-reminiscent feel. Located on a sleepy, residential Carroll Gardens corner, Black Mountain is an unobtrusive addition to the neighborhood, boasting a solid wine list that doesn't take itself too seriously. Order a tart and simple glass of Chateau de la Presle Sauvignon Blanc Touraine ($7) or splurge on a truly elegant bottle of 1999 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia from Rioja, Spain ($55). The food offerings are also unpretentious-the delicious tuna niçoise salad ($10) lists "really expensive canned tuna" as one of its ingredients. In the wake of the recent New York Times story noting that the area is fast becoming the West Village of the south, it's true that places like Black Mountain aren't helping matters. But . . . as long as Sex and the City tour buses don't start toodling down Smith Street, it's hard to justify hating on a place as delightful as this. 415 Union St., Brooklyn, (718) 395-2614.

Photo from A Brooklyn Life

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