Restaurant of the Week: Harbour

Jonathan Durbin

File this one under unfortunate timing: chef Joe Isidori's luxurious new seafood emporium, located in that way-west stretch of SoHo that's perhaps most familiar to those on their way to Don Hill's or Sway. The restaurant's exterior and front bar aren't much to write home about and in fact are slightly misleading. The dining room in back is gorgeous, appointed in a fashion that's perhaps best described as Halston-yacht-swank (a genre of interior design that, in the years since John McDonald launched Lure, became increasingly popular around town). Of course, that was pre-financial-apocalypse, and Harbour opened in late March. Not that it matters: The bottom line here is that the food is excellent, and there's no arguing with quality. Isidori is producing well-orchestrated meals that are, at times, astonishing in their subtlety. The sea scallop ceviche with sea urchin and Thai mignonette ($10) is a must, as is the tender Arctic char ($24), seasoned with miso, grapefruit and yuzu -- a tangy, complex juxtaposition of citrus tastes that's meant to be savored. The beer selection is similarly deep (the Rogue Dead Guy Ale is worth the $6 for the hops alone), and the selection of sides won't disappoint, particularly the kim-chi-style cabbage and bacon. It's uptown food served in a very downtown location. No matter what the industrial averages say, that's good news for seafood lovers. Unfortunately, as Grub Street reports, Isidori is currently on leave for "personal health reasons"; we wish him all
the best, and hope he returns to the kitchen soon.

290 Hudson St.
(212) 989-6410

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