Restaurant of the Week (Don't Forget Edition): BondSt

Julie Besonen

It was hard to see any sign of the recession, or depression, or whatever you want to call it at BondSt on a recent Saturday night. Okay, we were able to get a last-minute, primetime reservation, which never would have happened before, and there was one empty table in the sushi bar where we were sitting, but still, the place was rocking. Flush looking groups of style hounds clustered shoulder to shoulder in banquettes and cute couples snuggled over candlelight and saketinis. The lineup of sushi chefs whooped when an artist-type regular straddled the bar and ordered a round of beer for the whole kitchen. Even while drinking, the men were careful with their knives, slicing fish with precision and imaginatively arranging it on the plate. We trusted them enough to order the omakase menu, a chef's selection of sushi and sashimi that starts at $40 per person and goes up to $120, depending on how hungry and/or loaded you are. The uni, octopus, fluke, yellowtail and unagi were jewel-like, pretty enough for brooches. A supplemental seaweed salad with orange sesame dressing ($12), lobster tempura ($16), and a $50 bottle of incredibly dry and delicious sake, made our check climb higher. I blame the festive atmosphere for unleashing our belt-tightening ways and living it up. Open since 1998 and fully recovered from a scorching electrical fire a couple years back, Jonathan Morr's BondSt seems as new and fresh as ever.

6 Bond St.
(212) 777-2500

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