Nothing Says Opulence Like a Medieval Bedazzled Nun

Mario Abad
Fri, 28 Feb 2020 16:05:55 +0000
Fall 2020, Julian dossena, Paco rabanne, Paris fashion week, Pfw

Paco Rabanne may be known for its signature chainmail and metal mesh, but for Fall 2020 the brand took these glistening materials and gave them the royal treatment. Creative Director Julien Dossena staged his latest show in the gothic medieval hall of the Conciergerie, which was part of a former royal palace.

While last season focused on '70s references and tailored dressing, this collection was all about how far Dossena could go in terms of craft and workmanship. Historical, austere silhouettes were embellished with an abundance of surface treatments like shimmery sequins and lacquered leathers.

References ran the gamut from Joan of Arc to grunge, but it was the religious codes that gave the collection a divine feel. Prim baptism dresses and ceremonial vestments resembling a monk's robe were utterly feminine thanks to the finery of papal lace and armor-like beading.

But it was the chainmail headgear and embroidered hoods that really encapsulated the somber, almost mythical mood of the show. Meanwhile, the metal belts and exaggerated platform boots grounded the collection with a strong punk edge that takes these clothes from the medieval to the 21st century. See, below, for more photos from Paco Rabanne Fall 2020.

Photos courtesy of Paco Rabanne