PAPERMAG: WORD UP!

The Cobra Snake's Paris Fashion Week Yard Sale

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 14:23:46 -0500

Mark "The Cobra Snake" Hunter might be known for his nightlife photography (featuring the cutest kids donning the trendiest, kookiest togs), but his distinctive, endearingly "ragamuffin Jewish" panache -- a trademark that has evolved by virtue of his extensive travels scouring vintage shops around the world for his eponymous online "Cobra Shop" -- has always made him distinct. It's no wonder, then, that PM Tenore, founder of lifestyle brand RVCA and advocate of the budding brightest in subculture, tapped Hunter to collaborate with his RVCA Artist Network Program (ANP) on a full-fledged collection. True to form, he unveiled his collection Sunday in a setting where he has found some of his greatest fashion finds: a yard sale. Shoppers gathered at the Brunch Bazar in Paris to browse collections of vintage selected by Hunter as well as items from the line. "I am constantly inspired when I travel... from Paris Fashion Week to a sketchy trip to Mexico City, I love colors and funny outfits and have always had a very eccentric style," Hunter said. "I dress exactly the way that I want and I don't worry much about what other people might think."

Re-interpreting his personal looks into the RVCA line was a cinch, says Mark: "they let me go crazy... I came up with tons of ideas and they helped me make sense of everything." For Spring 2010 Mark also took a cue his dynamic grandparents' style (as commemorated by fellow lensman Todd Selby on the famed fashion/interior shrine TheSelby.com); to wit "the Party Time RVCA rainbow sweater was actually referenced from something I found at my Grandma Renee's house." Some of Hunter's fun, flippant illustrations that first graced his stickers have evolved into the collection's backbone: instantly-identifiable t-shirts culminating with his bestselling The Cobraflage tee (depicting an illustrated Sgt. Snake commanding 'YOU to join The Cobra Snake Party Army!'). No doubt that legions of club kids will be clamoring to enroll.

Julia Frakes Talks Paris Fashion Week With Style.com Photog Tommy Ton

Fri, 05 Mar 2010 10:44:46 -0500

We caught up with Tommy Ton, Style.com's street fashion photog, for a little chit-chat about shooting Paris Fashion Week.

What is your favorite aspect about shooting Paris Fashion Week? What do you think sets it apart from New York, London and Milan?

Well, after a grueling three weeks, Paris is finally the end... and that's something to look forward to in itself. Paris is really the most beautiful city to be photographing the fashion set. Everything from the light to the historic locations, it's visually overwhelming; you can take a photo anywhere and it is be guaranteed to be beautiful. There's just a mood and feeling in the air in Paris that inspires everyone to want to dress up and have fun with fashion. Paris plays hosts to the most crucial shows of the industry, so it definitely attracts the largest number of editors, buyers, models and stylists. Everyone who is anyone is here and that's what really defines Paris from the other cities.

As a style photographer for Vogue US, Vogue Nippon, Style.com, Vogue Girl Korea, and others... what do find yourself seeking out and hunting for in particular?

I was overly analytical when I first started taking photos. However after going to fashion weeks abroad several times, I have learned to embrace all of the other competitive photographers and just snap at anything that catches my eye. Everything happens so quickly that it can be completely overwhelming, so I just shoot away at anything that immediately intrigues me. Whether it's how someone has knotted their belt or how high they've cuffed up their pant leg, you just have to keep your eyes open at all times when you're shooting in Paris.

Tuesday, March 9th is your birthday -- the same day as Chanel, Chloé and Valentino -- how do you plan on celebrating your 26th in Paris?

I will probably be working of course. My birthday is no reason to avoid working, especially since it's on one of the most important days to be taking photos. I'll probably be celebrating two nights prior at the New York, New York party (cohosted by Paul Sevigny, Derek Blasberg, Tommy Saleh, Monsieur André, Rad Hourani, Steven Rojas, Matt Kays, Pete Miszuk of stylesightings.com and Phil Oh of streetpeeper.com) and then maybe have a quiet dinner with friends on my actual birthday.

The Selby Moves In With Colette

Thu, 04 Mar 2010 15:55:34 -0500

To promote his forthcoming book The Selby Is in Your Place (released April 1st worldwide), legendary interior photographer Todd Selby moved in with Colette. "The Selby's Window Apartment," on display from March 1st through 6th to coincide with Paris Fashion Week, features Selby living in the French designer's front window at 213 Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. Passers by can steal a glance at Selby in his unnatural habitat, but stopping in the Colette shop comes with rewards. There, advanced copies of the book, limited-edition signed prints, and Selby stickers are on sale. Selby has also been playing host. This week, visitors have been treated to pet portrait sessions by Selby, karaoke sessions, and prize giveaways. Saturday, from 4 to 6 p.m., anyone can stop by with photos of their home or office for a free VIP Selby consultation (with the help of special guests throughout the day).

On Wednesday I met Selby to finish up a project that we have been working on for Vogue Nippon. As luck would have it, my visit happened to dovetail with a karaoke session in Todd's new, very public, place.

On a scale of 1-10, how would you rate your own karaoke abilities?

You are silly.

How did you conceive of The Selby's Window Apartment concept to promote your book?

It's a crazy idea I had: to live in the window of Colette. To see what it looks like each day, keep an eye on my blog on Colette.com to see photos.

Can you perhaps reveal any of the "special guests" who will be assisting you with free VIP interior design consultations?

Nope. They're a secret.

Lyna Ahanda on the Francis Bacon(s)-inspired new issue of Lurve

Wed, 03 Mar 2010 16:29:48 -0500

Lyna Ahanda founded Lurve two years ago, and the magazine has been steadily gaining a loyal readership and rave reviews since. The Spring/Summer 2010 issue -- with a cover featuring Irina Lazareanu photographed by Cécile Boroletti -- débuts tonight in Paris with a launch event at OFR Galerie. Featuring artwork Ahanda curated by Chadwick Tyler, Edouard Plongeon, Cécile Bortoletti, Pamela Love, and Jordan Sullivan, the show celebrates the issue's theme, "Beyond the Body Proper." It will be swiftly followed by a must-attend cocktail fête at La Cave de la Fidélité (likely going on as this is posted), and DJ'd by downtown New York's most sought-after jeweler Pamela Love and Olivier Bobin. I recently caught up with Ahanda, who is based between Paris and Berlin, to discuss the new issue's Francis Bacon(s)-inspired theme, the inspiration behind Terrence Koh's photography in the issue, and who she envisions the Lurve reader to be.

How did you initially come to Sir Francis Bacon's quote -- 'There is no excellent beauty that hath not some strangeness in the proportion?' Was that eventually designated 'Beyond the Body Proper' as the theme for the third issue of Lurve?

For the past year or so, the fashion industry has been in the center of this "size issue." When I gave birth, I saw my body changing for what I thought was the worst. I was doing research on Francis Bacon (the painter) when I came across that quote (by Sir Francis Bacon, the philosopher). I thought that it was so beautiful how two people with the same names and completely different associations could share the same ideas: on one hand there's Bacon the painter with his distorted portraits, and on the other hand there's Bacon the writer, defining beauty in a way that very few could understand. With Lurve's third issue, I wanted to try to push the size issue even further. My research led me to this anthropology essay, "Beyond the Body Proper," and I soon understood that body image was a subject so deep that by, for example, doing an editorial with a plus-size model, we could not translate anything of significance. So we tried to propel the issue further by just showing "special" beauties and trying to find something beautiful in every person.

The Strength of Rodarte

Mon, 22 Feb 2010 08:31:30 -0500

I loved where designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy took their Rodarte collection this season. It was a super show. I adored the patched-together fabric clashes from scraps of plaids and floral prints, especially the photo print of roses. It seemed as if the girls were tipping their hat to grunge in the most updated way without losing their core. Then there were the most amazing group of white dresses -- layered and wrapped with lots of texture and trimmings. Rodarte will no doubt be first on a list for hipster wedding dresses in 2010. Here are my favorite looks... from "nouveau Rodarte gruntge" to "here come the hipster brides."

Photos from style.com

A Winning Collection From Slow and Steady Wins the Race

Sat, 20 Feb 2010 11:42:02 -0500

We loved what we saw when we stopped in at the Carlyle Hotel to see designer Mary Ping's collection Slow and Steady Wins the Race. Her small collection was displayed casually around a suite -- draped on chairs, beds and on hangers in the bathroom -- as if you were stopping by someone's room who was a bit messy and had their stuff all over the place. Ping's work is really great. In one bedroom, she had a series of black T-shirts each in a different fabric, from leather to lace, mesh to rubberized cotton to silk. Then there was the one fantabulous white T-shirt made entirely of pearls (see above). I immediately began shopping and bought a gigantic pearl necklace, a canvas spoof on a designer bag and a canvas down-filled faux fox stole which was fabulous. Great, smart and beautifully made stuff.

Threeasfour's Laser Show

Sat, 20 Feb 2010 11:10:06 -0500

The wonderful Threeasfour sent out their metallic-clad women into a foggy room with a geometric web of laser beams on the floor. A gong was rung, the lights went up and the women in a circular formation slowly unwound, spiraling onto the runway. The choreography was a mere extension of the super special clothes which were designed based on Threeasfour's signature curvy silhouettes and seaming. On the surface of femininity, Threeasfour's pieces are really for the creative and sometimes tough warrior woman who is not afraid to wear head to toe metallic armor, whether in the form of silk or leather. These clothes are merely extensions of the wonderful people who make them: Adi, Angela and Gabi. Knowing these three talents, is understanding their work. These are designs for people like them: eccentric, smart, outside the mainstream and passionate about what they do. And the audience -- the most interesting I saw this Fashion Week -- was filled with exactly those sorts of folks: writers, artists, thinkers and outsiders. Thank goodness for Threeasfour.

Made in Japan

Fri, 19 Feb 2010 15:29:30 -0500

Check out this hilarious fashion trend that's all over the streets of Japan. No, it's not kids walking around with see-through skirts, but merely fabulous tromp l'oeil butt prints screened on them. pretty fun, eh? Cant wait til this one comes to NYC.

Matthew Ames's Simple, Chic Collection

Thu, 18 Feb 2010 09:05:27 -0500

Another designer I continue to be drawn to every season is Matthew Ames. I always loved the '80s-era designer Zoran, and Ames seems to be somewhat of an updated reincarnation of him. I'm a sucker for geometry and boxy, unfussy shapes as a uniform and this season Ames served them up in lovely painterly and quirky palettes.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2010 COVERAGE. >>

Sophia Kokosalaki's Diesel Cuteness

Wed, 17 Feb 2010 11:14:05 -0500

It's always fun to see my great old friend Renzo Rosso, and over breakfast yesterday at Balthaszar with his family (son Andrea and daughter Alessia), I heard all about the fun impending show for Diesel Black, the debut of the label's new creative director Sophia Kokosalaki. Well, the show was fresh, with just a little grunge mixed in (I loved the black leather jumper with plaid shirt), but the denim and the super-great, sexy women's jeans were still the stars of the mix.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2010 COVERAGE. >>

Marc Jacobs Puts On One of the Most Beautiful Shows of His Career.

Tue, 16 Feb 2010 11:45:36 -0500

Last night, Marc Jacobs put on one of the most beautiful shows of his career. Walking into the Armory space that the Jacobs team had adorned with simple artisinal plywood crate benches, walls and floors made out of corrugated cardboard and a big wooden framed box covered in brown paper, I felt a sense of relief at this departure from all the frantic sameness of Fashion Week so far. And when the designer and his partner (both looking super handsome... Marc traded in his skirt this season for a super-sharp custom suit) walked out and ripped paper off of a giant box to reveal 56 girls clad in his beautiful collection, as "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" (a Rufus Wainwright version?) played in the background, it all just felt completely RIGHT. This was a moment I'd been craving. Jacobs gave us an homage to BEAUTY, not to mention warmth, emotion, serenity, comfort, familiarity, heritage (including his own!) and even a hint of melancholy dusted with sparkles -- without muddling it with cloying nostalgia, technology or trendiness. I would buy and wear for years three quarters of what I saw on the runway, especially the most anonymous beautiful gray skirt with a navy pea-coat. These are clothes that feel like old friends... to be loved and worn until threadbare. I loved what Jacobs told style.com: "'It's refreshing to see something that isn't trying so hard to be new," Jacobs, subversive as ever, said after the show. 'There's so much striving for newness now that newness feels less new.'" At a time when Lindsay Lohan is designing for Ungaro, Sarah Jessica Parker is doing Halston and word has it Madonna is in talks to launch a line, we need more true blue designers to step up to the plate and give us the real deal like Marc Jacobs did last night.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2010 COVERAGE. >>

Amazing Margiela

Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:14:08 -0500

Don't miss the Margiela auction that Resurrection and First Dibs are putting on. I wear Margiela every day in the winter (I have three amazing winter coats!) and have always adored and collected these designs. Here are just a two of my favorite sick pieces up for auction: a double dress and a crazy webbed ballet pump!

R.I.P. Alexander McQueen

Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:44:16 -0500

How is this possible? I was beyond devastated to learn this morning about the untimely death of one of the few true fashion world geniuses Alexander McQueen, who took his own life. McQueen was an artist and I would wait with bated breath each season to soak in his genius and radical design ideas. I am speechless. The fashion world has lost one of its greatest.

Cynthia Rowley at Gagosian?

Mon, 01 Feb 2010 17:54:34 -0500

I love this invite I got for an opening to celebrate a new Cynthia Rowley limited edition "mystery creation" for Gagosian that will be available at Gagosian's art store (988 Madison Ave.) beginning in mid-February. Can't wait to see what she's doing! I also can't wait to see her hubby Bill Powers as a judge on Bravo's upcoming art-star reality show called Work of Art: The Next Great Artist, which premieres in June.

We Heart MMM (Missoni Mens Milan)

Tue, 19 Jan 2010 12:44:46 -0500

Look how CUTE the Missoni men's stuff is! I love a guy in Missoni.