Kai D.: Tools and Clothing for Artisans

It's a tall order to say that any one designer is adding to fashion's narrative with his passion for the city itself. But while the Lower East Side may evoke images of the punk and street grunge movements that have overtaken everything below East Houston as of late, Kai D.'s Spring 2010 collection hearkens back to a time when the neighborhood was a working class melting pot. Nostalgic without being overly-sentimental, and focused on utility without being utilitarian, the Kai D. Collection is a study in New York's past and present; indeed, the collection is even titled "Local."

"You can't replace vintage with more vintage," said Kai D. Fan, designer of the collection. Such Zen-like statements would seem out of place if it weren't for the careful thought -- both historical and sartorial -- that went into each garment. From the vintage linen trim and burnt wood buttons of a soft construction naval blazer, to the Civil War-inspired suspenders over vintage Henleys, to the hand stitched 1/16" welts on the pockets of single-pleated khaki pants, Kai D. is not only keeping it local, but also keeping it in the details. And with so many designers crafting mission statements rather than well-tailored clothes, it's refreshing to find a menswear label that has the goods and the philosophical chops to do so.


Kai D.
75 Orchard St.
(212) 334-6241

Previously on PAPERMAG - Shop of the Week: Kai D.