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Posted Jul. 17, 2009, 4:38 p.m. ET
Bar of the Week: Ward III
By Donhae Koo

Indecisives, beware. Tribeca’s new cocktailery, borne of industry veterans Michael Neff, Abdul Tabini and Kenneth McCoy, may offer your worst nightmare: any libation your imagination can conjure (within reason, of course). Beyond a nondescript exterior and minimal signage, the bartenders of Ward III fine-tune their mixology instincts in a subdued space of grays and blues with exposed brick and liquor shelves fashioned out of antique Singer sewing machine tables. Depending on your tastebuds’ nitpicky desire, name your poison, then specify creamy and spirit-forward with a hint of anise, or maybe effervescent and savory with melon. The provided list of spirits, spices, fruits, and descriptors help get the creative juices flowing, just don't approach it buffet-style -- bartender's discretion means the customer isn't always right. My tame request for crisp and refreshing with a vodka base was met with finesse using cucumber, mint, housemade bitters, lemon, and sugar ($12). After spying an untouched mango, my next drink became a joint effort, brainstormed into existence as tropical, Thai-influenced, and 2.5 stars on the spicy scale. The resulting concoction alchemized white rum, black rum, mango, red pepper flakes, lime, and sugar, into something slightly pulpy and sweet with an aggressive heat. But the Handel's Messiah Hallelujah-moment of the night was a takeoff of the uncommonly delicious Tortuga ($12) from the existing cocktail menu (for those who the bespoke concept gives analysis paralysis). Deemed worthy of recording for future reference, the recipe of bourbon, sweet vermouth, egg whites, mint, red pepper flakes, and lime was scribbled on a coaster in the designated space and filed away in their system (you wouldn't want to lose that eureka cocktail). A full menu from open to close includes bacon-wrapped dates ($7), pork and beef meatball sliders ($12), and Moroccan chicken pot pie ($14), while an Ommegang Witt or Peak Organic Pale Ale ($7) await for when you need a break from reinventing the wheel.
Ward III
111 Reade St.
(212) 240-9194
www.ward3tribeca.com
Photos from thrillist.com











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