A Quick Chit-Chat with Designer Jeremy Laing

NEXT »

Jeremy Laing with a Spring 2009 piece

Acclaimed Canadian designer Jeremy Laing's self-taught organic and geometric approach to construction has garnered continuous praise from fashion bibles style.com and Women's Wear Daily, who even exalted his Lucio Fontana-influenced Spring 2009 presentation as "a heck of a good ride." Shortly after the hustle and bustle of September's prêt-à-porter shows, Mickey and I caught up with Jeremy and his trusty, charming communications director Frank Griggs at their temporary New York outpost to ogle the well-received collection en personnes. Four months, an economic collapse, a presidential term, and a worldwide opinion of America later, I had a quick tête-à-tête with Jeremy where we touched upon his forthcoming February 15 showing, the cardinal gravity of Obama's New Deal, models, Nascar, indie electo-nerds, green juice, cuddles and kitties. In no particular order.

I know you're Canadian, but how has President Obama's sweeping message of hope and change affected your collection?
In Canada we can have elections any time one is called and they take about two months (rather than two years) so I found it fascinating to watch -– from a distance -– the theater around the U.S. election. It was engrossing and compelling and all the more so for how critically the results promised to affect the world. I was swept up by the campaign message of change, but am less compelled by that rhetoric then by
Obama's call to action -- to build, to forge, to construct.

What is your chief source of inspiration for Autumn 2009?
Well... building, forging and constructing! Plus elements of welding, industrial materials, steel workers, public works projects, safety design, as well as a drive around a Nascar race track and a visit to the Hendricks Motorsports Compound on a recent trip to North Carolina.

What role has the current economic situation played in your upcoming collection?
It has made me think a lot about the importance of value and a distinct point of view: both of which I am [in the midst of] cultivating.

Can you share any fun tidbits with your avid fans on what can be expected from your upcoming show?
I am returning to having friends play music at the show. It's a new project – aptly titled "New Feelings" –- and I love what they do: dancey stuff with deep house and disco inflections, but through the "filter" of indie electronic nerds.

How has your collection evolved from last season's (stunning and impressive) showing?
Spring was very light and soft with lots of layers, slashes galore and a mostly monotone palette of neutrals. For Fall I am returning to my tailoring roots, accordingly rendering a bit of a harder edge with more structure; I am focusing on cool pieces to play with and layer instead of stand-alone dresses.

Your shows are time and again noted for their consummate casting: what is your process for selecting models?
As soon as we arrive in New York from Toronto we start welcoming models for casting... and then it doesn't stop! I prefer mostly new faces, in addition to a harder look: nothing too "perfect." Obviously the fit is important... as is proportion and personality. While I don't care very much about the walk or posing -– poise is key.

Where do you see your label in five years... are there any ventures that you would like to undertake down the road?
There are many ventures that I would like to undertake tomorrow, let alone down
the road! I want to make furniture and begin painting again. And then there is menswear! Unfortunately as I am painfully independent and intensely hands-on,
I don't have time for other projects – so my hope is that I will in five years' time

What is your choice late night pick-me-up come design crunch time?
Green juice, B-12, my kitty, cuddles and power-naps!