In case it all went by too fast, here's a blow-by-blow of what went down today on PAPERMAG.com.

2:44 p.m. Prabal Gurung debuted his luxurious collection.
3:29 p.m. We introduced Catherine Malandrino as PAPERMAG's newest (and stylish) guest-blogger.
3:59 p.m. Welcome to McDuckie Brown. Would you like fries with that?
5:59 p.m. Shipley & Halmos gave a lesson in understated sophistication.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

As the son of John Lennon and Yoko Ono, Sean Lennon is like a living personification of a moment of history. But at the Charlotte Ronson show yesterday, he was just a guy in a bow tie waiting to check out his good friend Mark Ronson's sister's new collection. We got to chatting and when asked what drives his love of fashion, he replied, "I don't know, it's a desire to cover as many parts of my body as possible, to conceal them from the world." Which leads one to wonder, what parts is he trying to cove the most? "It depends on what time of the day you're talking about. I just like to ornament myself to distract from, you know, my... natural gifts."

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

The third floor gallery in an unnamed building in Chelsea was the setting for Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos's show yesterday afternoon. A dreamlike maze of hypnotized models zig-zagged across the barren space.

This talented duo have been darlings of the fashion crowd for many seasons. Initially, they dove into the industry as part of the original quartet of founding fathers of one of my favorite West Coast labels, Trovata. Flash forward a handful of years, a heartfelt professional divorce and a move to New York City later to February 2008, when the duo traded the preppy Cali-style for something new. I suppose the buttoned-up flair of the East Coast has always been a driving force in their aesthetics. As part of Trovata they already understood the importance of story telling through their clothes. In their newest incarnation, they have learned the valuable lesson of fine editing and as a result, their Fall 2009 collection radiates with effortless elegance.

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Nicole Miller is getting down -- literally. She's kneeling on the ground, has pins in her mouth and is diligently tugging on the hem of a dress worn by one of her models. This hands-on approach is how she operates in the days before her show. How else does she prepare? I stopped by to find out less than 24 hours before her show debuted in the Tents at Fashion Week.

So it's the night before Fashion Week. What are you and your team doing?
Eating potato chips and sipping wine. We always order a case of each.

What!?
Yes! Last season it was Zaps. This season it's Tims. They have great flavors like habanero and jack cheese.

I was expecting you to say something else entirely.
Well, I also cooked every weekend for us. I made jambalaya, mousaka and penne lasagna.

Wow!
I know. But at the end of the day everyone gets tired and just wants to snack on something.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Is there anyone more fab than Hamish Bowles? The European Editor at Large for Vogue co-chaired the opening reception Thursday night for Valentina: American Couture and the Cult of Celebrity at the Museum of the City of New York. The exhibition celebrates Valentina Sanina Schlee (1899-1989) -– known simply as Valentina -- who was considered a brazen fashion designer and larger than life celebrity in her time. Nearly 700 well-heeled New Yorkers dropped in to see never-before-exhibited gowns, accessories and photographs of her life and work. With fellow chairmen Eric Javitz, Tara Rockefeller and Susan Tabak (pictured above at right), Mr. Bowles worked the room with his trademark genteel. We kicked off Fashion Week in sartorial splendor!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Luxe fabrics, strong silhouettes and quirky touches are exactly what we expected -- and got -- from Duckie Brown's Fall 2009 collection. But a coupon for the new McCafé, a "couture coffee" from McDonald's? Maybe not. I caught up with with Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, the Dynamic Duo behind the brand to sort out the mystery.

McDonald's?

Steven Cox: Well I used to work there for three years when I was younger. I was a five-star, which means I provided really good customer service at the cash machine.

What! When was this?

SC: When I was a teenager I worked from when I was 16 to 19 in Barnett, London. The place was so clean and organized.

I'm sure you souped up the uniforms.

SC: It was this navy polyester thing. But it wasn't nice poly and the pants were flare leg. I took them in and made them them narrower -- and the rest is history.

So do you still lust after fries and a shake?

Daniel Silver: There's a McDonald's in the Garment District and every once in a while, Steven goes there and orders a cheeseburger sits by himself and eats it secretely.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Acclaimed French designer Catherine Malandrino, known for her ethereal, romantic approach to fashion, will be blogging for PAPERMAG throughout Fashion Week. Here is her first installment.

It was a great day… Odile Gilbert was a genius and Tom Pecheux was very creative. My friend Selima (from Selima Optics) came for a therapy moment, and I finally realized the vision that I carried for the last six months -- clothes, hair and make up. Jon James (my casting director) found me an exquisite Australian who I thought was Siberian named Laura. "You must be cold,” I said to her, and and responded, “ I am burning hot in Australia." Then I finished my day with champagne and friends.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

About 80 percent of the more than 200 photographers that cram every inch of space in what is affectionately called "the pit" are alpha males, so when you have a stunner in a red dress, you can imagine both the testosterone and fairly racy comments flowing! The consensus this year was that Amanda Bynes "killed it!" The annual Heart Truth Red Dress is all about bringing the message to all women -- work on keeping your heart health!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

One of New York's cutest and most muscley designers Prabal Gurung had a debut presentation of his own collection on Thursday. He'd been design director of Bill Blass before the legendary fashion house closed and previously he worked at Cynthia Rowley. Prabal (which rhymes with trouble)'s silhouettes were uptown chic and the feel was luxurious -- perfect to fill the gap left in stylish ladies' wardrobes since the closure of BB.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

God save McQueen! Pieces from Alexander McQueen's new line, McQ for Target, were on display last night in a huge cavernous warehouse in Chelsea. All sorts of curried lobster rolls, garlicky potato puffs and drinks aplenty were provided for hungry shoppers. It was fun to see both press folks and celebrities with their arms draped with McQueen items wandering from stall to stall before proceeding to check out!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Meet the first in Mr. Mickey's new series Hot Hunks of Fashion Week. Chervine Dalaeli is a tall, dark and luscious Persian who grew up in Paris and drives Mr. Mickey wild with desire. Sadly Chervine is into the ladies so get to it girls!!! Chervine is a photographer and you can see his fashion week coverage on his Facebook page!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Last night Unis and Anna Sheffield kicked off Fashion Week with a big ol' party at Chloe. The crowd included the likes of Cheryl Dunn, Mr. Mickey, Marcel Castenmiller and Kai Kuhne, but the definite highlight was a performance like Spank Rock, who came prepared with a smoke machine and an inceredible light show, which made the tiny Chloe space look like a trillion bucks... in singles!!!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

As always the Charlotte Ronson show was super cute and this season the chic factor was pumped up! No one during Fashion Week has a cuter crowd and of course Charlotte's family was out in full force. Our favorite front row vignette was PAPER November cover boy Mark Ronson sandwich by Mom Ann Dexter-Jones and girlfriend Tennessee Thomas of the band The Like. Also in the front row: Sean Lennon, Jen Brill, Theo Wenner, Chrissie Miller of Sophomore, Joy Bryant, Lindsay Lohan, Dani Stahl, Ali Wise, Bonnie Morrison, Cory Kennedy, Peaches Geldof, Bunny Kinney, Eleanor Ylvisaker. Sister Sam Ronson DJ'd.

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

American menswear has been revitalized in recent years by a new crop of creative and daring young designers, who have been questioning the proportions established by the gods of tailoring across the pond in the Old Continent. And for us fashion addicts, this gives us something to debate about. Whether we love or hate the new and sometimes risky approach these designers choose to take, we can only stand back and applaud their unique take on menswear. These young American designers tend to focus on clothes that are useful, comfortable and adaptable. Certainly not the three main concerns of fashion designers abroad. By doing so, their clothes become a reflection of urban routines and style; clothes that speak a language that is both youthful and filled with life. I've been closely watching the progress of these emerging brands adapting my Old World closet into something that would be best described as a half-breed.

Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, the partners in crime and fashion, created a hot New York based brand back in 2001: Duckie Brown. In 2003, the brand was featured at the Gen Art Fresh Faces Show and not surprisingly became a hit with the New York fashion set for their singular vision. Fashion critic Tim Blanks has gone as far as calling this duo the "fashion prophets" for their daring play with proportions and sense of humor.

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Valentine's Day is almost here and I better not get a box of chocolates. You heard me. I love savory and salty things -- potato chips beat dessert any day. But since it's V-Day we're talking about, I want something a little more fancy. Italy is my favorite country to visit, and Emilia Romagna one of my pet regions, so please, please, buy me something from there. You don't have to go there to get it. For one-stop shopping, try DiPalo's in Little Italy and fill up a gift basket with the king of cheeses, Parmigiano-Reggiano, some prosciutto di Parma, and a little bottle of aged balsamic vinegar from Modena (way more tasty than perfume). I'd also like a bottle of prosecco, which is so fun to have with prosciutto. I'm not asking for Champagne, I know times are tough.

I have a writer crush on Martha Frankel. She's smart and funny and refreshingly, for a memoir writer, non-self serious. She likes to write, had a story to tell, wrote this (very excellent) book and now she wants you to read it. Do it.
Hats & Eyeglasses is Frankel's very candid memoir about her addiction to online gambling, the drugs she liked and did not, and her youth growing up in a Bronx housing project, in "a warm and loving family of die-hard gamblers." It's out from Penguin this month. Frankel will also be reading and speaking tonight at the Woodstock Memoir Festival in Woodstock, NY.

What do you think is "funny" and "disturbing" (The Washington Post) about Hats & Eyeglasses?
Funny -- my family. Disturbing -- my family.

Do you think your book is about "compulsion" (The Arizona Republic)?
My book is definitely about compulsion -- I started learning poker as research for a screenplay, and the next thing i knew, i had fallen down the rabbit hole with the Queen of Hearts.

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Designer Matthew Ames possessed a zen-like calm yesterday amidst the pre-Fashion Week chaos right outside his studio space overlooking Bryant Park. The young designer launched his namesake brand in 2005 and will be presenting his first runway show at Fashionhaus this Sunday at 3 p.m. Between meeting with editors and fitting the models, the gentle Brooklyn-based Ames offered us a preview of his sculptured, minimalist designs and discussed his experience in the industry so far.

His past collections have been dominantly black and white, with some splashes of bright color (usually red). The Fall 2009 collection is a departure, though, incorporating a classic American-inspired palette of camel, tobacco, olive green, and true blue denim colors. Though his designs are still marked by their unique structure, volume and shape, the shift in color gives them a warmth that's new to his catalogue.

Ames said he strives to eliminate the unnecessary in his work, and there is definitely a pureness to his design and aesthetic. There are no buttons, no linings. Instead, the designer trains his focus on creating a shape -- achieving that balance between the body and fabric, between the volume and proportions of the clothing. The coats, jumpsuits, one-shouldered wrap dresses, skirts and flowing pants are layered, draped and appear unstructured on a hanger, but move with graceful ease on a woman's body. We tried on one of the charcoal cashmere/cotton blend corduroy coats and were in awe of the life it took on.

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Yesterday stylist Ilaria Urbinati showed a collection in collaboration with handbag designer Rebecca Minkoff. Ilaria is the partner of Danny Masterson in the fabulous L.A. store Confederacy and she styled Danny and girlfriend Bijou Phillips for the February cover of PAPER. Ilaria is also PAPER family because she met her boyfriend photographer Eric Ray Davidson on a Paper shoot!!! Ilaria said the collection was inspired by Bob Dylan. Rock on kids!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

1. tra.kz = Twitter for music

2. Here's a reunion we're not looking forward to: Limp Bizkit. The original line-up plan a new CD and tour this year because they are "disgusted and bored with the state of heavy metal." Chocolate Starfish and the Hot Dog Flavored Water was good heavy metal?

3. Video shot from inside a tornado.

4. Today is 1234567890 Day. If your clock isn't set to UNIX time, the big moment arrives at 6:31:30 p.m. (EST). The best place to celebrate in NYC is under the Metronome clock at the Virgin Megastore in Union Square. See you there.

5. Xavier de Rosnay, half of the Grammy winning duo Justice, is DJing tonight at Webster Hall (125 E. 11th St.). Astralwerks is having a Late of the Pier release party in the basement.

6. The New York City Flamenco Festival starts today and runs until February 22.

Yay/Ugh, it's Valentine's Day tomorrow! Fun/Who cares, right? Whether you're charmed, disgusted -- or neither -- by this day for loverly lovers, there are plenty of spots to celebrate your doily-lined ambivalence around town. Below, a Bar of the Week round-up for romantics, unromantics, and people who like drink specials.

MANHATTAN IS FOR LOVERS (AND HATERS)

Sorella, a new L.E.S. Italian wine and small plates bar still has early evening reservations and themed, "love" and "hate" prixe fixe menus. The "love" option includes braised short ribs, brown butter scallops, and salted caramel cheesecake with chocolate dipped pretzels for $50. "Hate," $40, features "Wonton soup," with apple and veal dumplings, and "single" desserts including chocolate cake, a doughnut, or salted caramel gelato.

Unfortunately, Tailor is all booked up for their five-course dinner (where patrons will receive tea rose tequila in blood vials as take-home gifts. Aw.) but there should be space in the downstairs bar room, where they'll be serving up Eben Freeman's Royal Blush cocktails made with champagne, vodka, and cherry puree for $13.

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I had the distinct pleasure last year of styling the look book for Bodkin, a gorgeous Brooklyn-based label, who, as you should know by now, have been awarded Ecco Domani's first ever sustainable design award! Started by our friends Samantha Pleet and Eviana Hartman, this line is truly amazing, understated and chic while being, as the award would suggest, highly eco-friendly. Though most "green labels" maintain environmentally conscious standards few achieve such stylish success at the same time. Thankfully, we now know where to turn.

Eviana, who runs the label on her own now, has her first major presentation next week, and I am getting excited just thinking about it. In honor of the award and to give you an idea of the wonderful work to come, we're sharing some exclusive behind the scenes Polaroids with PAPERMAG. All shot by my main squeeze Andrew De Francesco, and featuring Teen Vogue.com cutie Naomi Nevitt, you can see the rest of the collection and more of ADF's fine camera work at the Bodkin website.

Cheers to Bodkin and Ecco Domani for making a great choice!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Marilyn Agency's sought-after Parisian mannequin Constance Jablonski took the modeling world by storm last season and since accumulated an enviable roster of blue-chip editorial and advertising work. The face of Donna Karen, D&G (alongside Imogen Morris Clarke) and Topshop has been handpicked by preeminent lensmen including Daniel Jackson, Matt Irwin, Mario Testino, Mert & Marcus, Jason Kibbler, Terry Richardson, Richard Burbridge and Sebastian Kim for practically every elite magazine in the industry. Fresh from the Givenchy Haute Couture catwalk in Paris, Constance has landed stateside and already hit the show circuit this morning at Jason Wu. Not on the list? You may just stumble upon Constance at international newsstands this month in Teen Vogue (garnering an unprecidented two editorials in the same issue) W and Russian Vogue!

What makes you laugh uncontrollably?
Most recently, when I caught sight of my friend reading PAPER in the street -– while trying to find a chair to sit in at the same time. She chose a seat that was not free and dissolved into laughter upon sitting on stranger's lap!

Do you ever become homesick while traveling? Do you bring any mementos or keepsakes from home with you?
No, I've never been one to become really homesick. I love traveling! I think the fact that I am French helps fend off homesickness because a lot of modeling jobs are in Paris and I can return home at least once a month. But yes, I take all of my life with me. I've never had a sense for "smart luggage" so it's always HUGE!

What is the greatest number of castings/go-sees that you have undertaken in one day?
I think around 20 -– during my freshman Fall/Winter season, of course.

What are your hobbies or otherwise hidden talents that may surprise people?
I play a lot of sports, especially tennis. In fact I'm so crazy about it that when I was younger I wanted to be the next Martina Hingis! I really love music and playing the piano as well.

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With their show happening tonight you would think that Costello Tagliapietra, the most huggable bears in fashion, would be holed up in their studio, sewing on closures and doing fittings with models. Well we stumbled upon the boys at Leather Squirrel, the old-school monthly party at Julius, the classic gay bar in the West Village, hosted by David Yarritu. It must be true that all work and no play makes CT dull boys!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

New Yorkers were literally "blowing in the wind" last night hiking most by limo to the Rachel Roy show at the IAC Building overlooking the West Side Highway. Even with the models' crazy black bee-stung lips and the frozen-in-time hypnotic effect, there was no denying the beautiful tailoring and design of each very individual outfit. All the savvy fashionistas were in attendance and PAPERMAG was shocked to see that very few realized that Keith Richards' beautiful daughter Alexandra Richards was DJ-ing!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Opening today, just in time for Valentine's Day is the new Friday The 13th (New Line/Paramount). Jason’s back -- the goalie-masked killer who stalked Camp Crystal Lake returns for a re-imagining by Marcus Nispel (the talented guy who surprised cult fans with a bloodthirsty retooling of The Texas Chainsaw Massacre). And it’s pretty damn good. The pre-credit sequence is an entire Friday the 13th movie on it’s own -- when the credits finally popped up the audience howled and applauded because it felt like we already saw a whole movie. What’s smart is the attention to the “legend” of the movies themselves -- they basically culled the best ideas from all of them, re-working it as muscle-bound, ruthless, teen body count movie for the Obama era.

The kids, vacationing at a spoiled rich kid’s posh country home, meet up with a hottie on a motorcycle looking for his sister who disappeared in the area six months earlier. It isn’t long before they stir up the reclusive Jason, who's been holed up in the woods living in underground lairs (with nods to Texas Chainsaw Massacre), who barrels through the woods slaying up a storm. This Jason is faster and more ferocious, but the setup is the same -- cute kids having sex and doing drugs who face the wrathful Jason. Topless water skiing, an incredibly attractive cast, and pretty spectacular kills -- it’s like a nice acid flashback but with a modern thrust. I have a feeling this should work big time, and would love to see Jason slay the He’s Just Not That Into You competition. The word ‘hero” has been overused as of late. But I like to think of Jason as a national folk hero. He’s intolerant, ultraconservative and reactionary to a fault. Christ, he’s practically a Republican. And I’ve always liked the strong silent type. Even if he is carrying a machete...

We might lean towards womenswear when it comes to editorial but when it comes to elbow rubbing with cuties nothing compares to a little menswear (particularly Spring-Summer swimsuit season!!!). It was wall to wall cuties as GQ and CFDA celebrated the finalists in the Best New Menswear Designer in America contest. Is it like a pageant? Who'll be Mr. Congeniality?

Photos from PatrickMcMullan.com

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

In the weeks leading up to the fall/winter collections, many questions have been asked in regards to the effects our crumbling economy has had on the fashion industry. Unfortunately, I can't offer any lengthy advice when it comes to saving your 401K from complete oblivion, nor do I have the formula for saving your job and social security pension. I lack the finance degree and my education in business goes little beyond the handful of core credits, the daily tutoring from the New York Times Business section and the countless hours of television programming devoted to the crisis (Thanks, Maria Bartiromo!). So when my friends ask me these questions of finance meets fashion, I find myself searching for the right words trying to formulate the intelligent response they are looking for. Instead, all I can think about is the fact that creativity and innovation thrive in times of crisis. My new mantra might sound naïve but this Pollyanna approach to our times has been of immense help and actually propelled some personal growth and stimulated my very own creativity.

As Fox News calls for the heads of the Democrats as part of their never-ending liberal witch hunt, I say ignore it all. Ignoring does not mean forgetting or simply being oblivious to the world around us. In fact, if you possess the skills required to fix it all, please I urge to take the lead. But for others who lack the financial savvy but are skilled in the creative department, let's do what we do best: Let's inspire.

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We here at PAPERMAG are thrilled to introduce to you a new blog series, A Night in the Life of, wherein writer Joseph Alexiou will be regularly chit-chatting with some of the biggest players in the New York nightlife jungle. Here's his first installment.

Nightlife personality One-Half Nelson is obsessed with his looks. From his signature handcrafted headpieces ("hats" are an understatement, darling) to his love of vintage frames and will-make-you-gag genderfuck ensembles, this designer, couturier, and virtuoso of the visual arts showcases on his own personal runway every weekend at Mr. Black. Which is why with Fashion Week commencing, we thought he'd be a great Night in the Life of subject to begin with.

Who do you think is the most visionary person in fashion right now?
Hmm this is a tough one, I feel like there's so many people that are visionary in different ways, in their different markets. Right now, one of the people I'm really into is Gareth Pugh. Also last season the McQueen prints were absolutely amazing. They were based on car wrecks -- really intricate layers and layers of prints. It was like a kaleidoscope. For me, it's always been about British designers -- they constantly push the envelope.

How does it feel to step into public with looks that most people can't fully comprehend?
That's kind of the point of the look -- that's the reason you do it -- a garment of clothing isn't really a look until it makes people question it. Without that, it's not really a look to me. My philosophy is about speaking to people visually. It's all about first impressions and communications -- one thing everyone in the world has in common is wearing clothing. Clothing communicates ideas.

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Tuesday night at the Thompson Lower East Side Hotel, Susan Woo presented her debut collection, which stands out for its environmentally conscious production (the kids love a little green action!). The clothes were chic and so was the crowd: Olivia Palermo, Kate Schelter, Maggie Rizer and Daniel Benedict all sipped Nicolas Feuillate champagne.

Photos by Patrick McMullan

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

1. Who's clocking dollars? According to Billboard's 2008 Top Moneymakers list Madonna was #1. She grossed over $242 million, while Bon Jovi, Bruce Springsteen, The Police and Celine Dion round-out the top five.

2. Legendary photographer Mick Rock shot MGMT (and several other artists) for Playboy magazine's third annual Rock the Rabbit feature.

3. Heartsrevolution will be touring with Guns N' Bombs, autoKRATZ and DJ Beni in support of the Scion/Kitsune CD Pioneer. The tour hits Miami on March 8.

4. High Times reports that Seattle's chief of police Gil Kerlikowske has been offered the job of running the U.S. Office of National Drug Control Policy. He is known as a "progressive reformer" who has made Seattle a "model of sensible marijuana policy." UPDATE: The Seattle Times says he has accepted the position.

5. Cro-Mags singer and author John Joseph brings a little "spoken word" to Webster Hall on February 21.

6. Four cities are still vying to host the 2016 Olympics: Chicago, Madrid, Rio de Janeiro and Tokyo. The winner will be announced on October 2.

Following up on Joaquin Phoenix's bizarre appearance on David Letterman last night, I thought you might like to read an article from Movie Maker magazine written by James Gray who directed Phoenix in three films, including Two Lovers, the film Phoenix was supposed to be plugging on Letterman. Gray's earnest appraisal of Phoenix and his unique talent rings true. He concludes:

I wrote Two Lovers knowing that if Joaquin didn’t want to do it it would never get made. The role was created for him: A tormented soul, struggling, lost, lonely and, finally, beautiful and heartbreaking. Who else could do it? Who else would?

Thankfully for me, he said yes, and the shoot was the happiest of the three. We developed a shorthand, but more often than not he was on his own—and he was liberated. The result is work that seems to my eyes eerily redolent of Montgomery Clift at his best.

Forgive me, but I have trouble accepting this retirement thing. I need Joaquin’s moments of authentic heartbreak, of unfiltered emotion, of poetic humanity. Joaquin shares my passion for exploring the melancholy movements of life, the sad awareness of time’s ruthless march; and he far surpasses me in emotional intellect, always ready to recognize genuine tenderness and reject all artifice. He has embraced an elegant, higher truth.

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Last night, SONY and PAPER's event celebrating the launch of the new SONY Vaio P-Series laptop was actually more of a "happening" than a party. You had your stunning windows designed by Elise Overland, Threeasfour, Ben Cho, Libertine, Cushnie et Ochs and Katy Rodriguez (all of whom were in attendance); you had your sexy models aping Robert Palmer's "Addicted to Love" video posing on the stairs; you had your PAPERMAG bloggers, armed with their new Vaios taking in the scene; and you had the brilliant Mr. Cho working the DJ booth. All that, plus the cutest mini grilled cheese sandwiches we'd ever seen!

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

The other night it became very apparent to me how much Ron Burgundy and Ricky Bobby there really is in our former President George W. Bush. Although the ramifications of the last eight years are not really funny, my cheeks still hurt from laughing at Will Ferrell's impersonation of the least popular president in U.S. history in his new Broadway show You're Welcome America: A Final Farewell to George W. Bush, which was almost like a culmination of all the hilarious characters Ferrell has ever played. There was even a part where he prays to the Lord Jesus Christ -- a riff on the dinner table scene from Talladega Nights.

One of the best parts of the show was when Ferrell gave out funny nicknames to people in the audience using their name and occupation. Last night a woman said she was an English teacher and Ferrell as W dubbed her "Unnecessary subject teacher." Another highlight was a skit which involved W getting trapped in an abandoned mine shaft with his father George H.W. and his brothers, Jeb, Neil and Melvin. George Sr. yells at Jr., "Why are you the only one in this family with a Texas accent!" I'd never thought of that before but it's true!

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Opening Friday is the globe-trotting high finance thriller The International (Columbia). Now why would I would I want to watch a film about an Interpol agent and a district attorney attempting bring down an evil bank that's trading weapons with third world countries? Because the stars are Clive Owen and Naomi Watts... I love them. And the director is Tom Tykwer (Run Lola Run)... and I love him too. The plot -- which involves the agents zeroing in on a sniper (Brian O’Byrne) deployed by the bank for assassinations -- is a glum muddle. But the film looks great. And it gives Tykwer the opportunity to do great set pieces -- a shootout at the Guggenheim is staggeringly wild. And with the sad state of affairs, it won’t be long before they let them blow up the Whitney for a Nicolas Cage film.

St. Louis, Missouri native Katie Fogarty may have been discovered outside of a Hollister at the West County Mall, but the models.com Top 10 Newcomer has surely moved on to lusher frocks –- in particular, Balenciaga and Miu Miu, in light of currently co-starring in both campaigns. Armed with a Fall 2009 showcard lensed by "it" fashion/portrait photographer Cameron Krone, that quietly radiates a romantic, wholesome nostalgia, coupled with last season's famed Spring 2009 début (garnering unrivaled attention in Europe subsequent to her "notorious spill" as a sought-after Prada exclusive in Miuccia's notoriously tortuous "shoes") and her current crop of recently released visionary editorials, all bets are on Katie for a killer sophomore season. I recently caught up with the 5'10" stunner amidst the pre-Fashion Week insanity and its fabled multifarious appointments, fittings, castings, and go-sees for a quick chit-chat touching on cereal, Cinderella, cookies, and capes – specifically, Batman's cape.

Do you ever become homesick while traveling? Do you bring any mementos or keepsakes from home with you?
I don't necessarily miss the city I am from so much as the people that are in it. I miss my friends, family and golden retrievers. Nevertheless my mom always manages to sneak a little something into my already overstuffed suitcase!

What is the greatest number of castings/go-sees that you have undertaken in one day?
Seventeen... I'm new: better to start out with just a few and work up to the big time!

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Known as the “rubber capitol of the world," Akron, Ohio is home to Goodyear and Firestone tires. It’s also the hometown of The Pretenders lead singer Chrissie Hynde who moved back to celebrate her 57th birthday this past September, look after her parents and open the city’s only vegan restaurant, VegiTerranean. Though Akron is her new home base, Hynde has been on the road of late, supporting the Pretenders' new album Break Up The Concrete, the band's ninth studio album. Its 11 songs were recorded in L.A. over the course of 12 days last April. The current lineup of the band sees three new members: guitarist James Walbourne, bass player Nick Wilkinson and Eric Heywood (ex-Son Volt) on pedal steel guitar, playing alongside original drummer Martin Chambers. I recently caught up with the band here in New York to a packed Roseland Ballroom, a stop on their 32-date U.S. tour. Like the live show, the album is a stark, rubber-meets-the-road showcase of talent, hard work, superb songwriting and showmanship which illustrates the album's message: stop with the over-building and consumption, pair it down, tear it down and get back to your roots. Being that I am from Youngstown, Ohio, I was able to cash in some buckeyes and was granted a rare “on tour” interview with Chrissie and the boys.

What’s your favorite dish off the VegiTerranean menu?
Chrissie Hynde: Oh, that changes daily. The Biker Burger, the Ghoulardi Pizza, the chicken picatta, the rhubarb and strawberry pie. Hey, I’m starving!

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A feeling of familiarity enveloped me the minute I sat down in this West Village Italian restaurant. I have been here before, I thought. And though I had visited when it was the middling Maremma, and the cheesy, clubby Asian before that, those weren’t the memories that I was conjuring. I realized that the area I was occupying, on the second floor of L’Artusi, was once the stage of cabaret club Eighty-Eights. And it was here that I was awed by my first live drag queen, Varla Jean Merman, nearly 20 years ago. The big hair, high-heels and gaudy makeup may now be gone; but thanks to chef Gabe Thompson and the team behind dell’anima, a touch of dazzle returns to the address. The bi-level space buzzes as much as it did when it was a cabaret joint, with yards of white marble dining bars, striped banquettes, deep-blue walls and skylights lending cozy comfort while the open kitchen unleashes tantalizing aromas throughout. Unlike Varla Jean, what won me over this time was not showy garishness; it was rather the dressed-down items on the menu. The crudos make engaging openers, especially the scallops ($13), dashed with olive oil, touched with lemon and sprinkled with perky espelette pepper; or the hamachi ($13) neat cubes sitting atop slivers of green apple, so thin they could be folded into a taco-like bite. Both were so fresh it had me wondering if there was a fisherman lurking in what was once Varla’s dressing room. Gnudi ($16) is the headliner among the pastas -- light, cheesy rounds in an appropriately wispy white wine and sage sauce. If it had a drag queen name, it would be called Yummy Golightly. As any performer will admit, not every bit works, and that’s the case here with the mezzaluna ($16) overly stiff half-moons stuffed with taleggio. Moist rabbit loin ($17) with hen-of-the-wood mushrooms pulled my attention back and the encores, like a more-than-mighty-fine chocolate pudding ($10), round out an impressive overall performance from the kitchen. At the end of the night, I was glad for the memory-jolt, and even happier the new venue proved that a diva playing dress-up isn’t the only hard act to follow.

L’Artusi
228 W. 10th St.
(212) 255-5757
www.lartusinyc.com

Forget the Grammys and overrated red carpets. That is so last Sunday. Want to talk sex on fire, for real? Move over, Kings of Leon. Spice up your listening life with a healthy dose of Trouble; the crunk-rock authority's sizzling, addictive album Trouble Andrew (Virgin/EMI) hit shelves yesterday. Perhaps more readily recognized as Trevor Andrew, the World Cup winning and Olympic gold medalist engaged to Santigold (née Santogold), this twenty-something Canadian snowboarder-turned-singer-songwriter knows what it takes to set it off and seldom slows down.

Last night Trevor and his Trouble Gang could be found wreaking havoc (AKA breaking it down) all over downtown Manhattan, from the Burton SoHo store to Santos Party House. And, slap dab in the middle of the evening, the foursome took time to open for Lily Allen's "secret" MySpace show at Bowery Ballroom. This miniature celebratory tour lasted roughly ten hours, spanning from 5 p.m. to well past witching hour. Impressive stamina!

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1. Snoop Dogg has signed a worldwide recording and TV deal with MTV. His next album, Malice In Wonderland, is scheduled to be released later this year and a weekly televised talk/variety show, Dogg After Dark, premieres February 17.

2. Kanye West discusses gays and rainbows with The Guardian: "I think as straight men we need to take the rainbow back because it's fresh. I mean how is that a gay thing? Colors? Having a lot of colors is gay?"

3. Fifty-six of the 110 Grammy awards went to independent artists and labels. (via Hypebot)

4. Ladytron and The Faint with DJ Figo will be at Webster Hall on April 10 and 11. Tickets go on sale Friday, February 13.

5. The price of a first-class stamp goes up to 44 cents on May 11.

6. Brooklyn photographer Frank Olinsky posts his shots of dogs waiting for their owners outside of coffee shops and delis.

Teetering atop stilettos and stark-lit against exposed brick, the wildly-coiffed creatures descended the staircase towards us -- towards what seemed an impenetrable mass of floating cocktails. Thigh-high liquid leggings, a lacy black garter belt, and the shock of an emblazoned redhead against the spotlight drew delighted, hushed outbursts from the crowd packed tight in BEast's basement bar last night.

Located deep in the bowels of the Lower East Side, the moody venue played host to the Outlaws of the Border Fall/Winter '09 collection preview. The young label's designer Lindsay Jones paired Victorian elegance with gothic sensibility, and what seemed a nod to the perverse Sci-Fi aesthetic of Sean Young in Ridley Scott's Blade Runner. Set to dreary custom-made electronica beats (to be released with the collection), the show featured a unique blend of texture and fabric, including a wide-gage, backless knit dress; bare silk frocks embellished with fur collars; and this year's requisite black jumpsuit.

Amid the stir, bright young things sipped vodka drinks with the hipster element clad in shrunken blazers, ratty T-shirts and pork pie hats. There was, however, an air of conservative chic among certain patrons (a sign of sober economic times, perhaps?). Indeed, the couple next to me looked rather handsome and strikingly civilized. Almost adult, juxtaposed to one fellow's deliciously lewd handlebar mustache.

Photos by Chichi Williams

CLICK HERE FOR PAPERMAG'S COMPLETE DOWN-LOW FASHION WEEK FALL 2009 COVERAGE. >>

Remember when Prince changed his name to a symbol? Or Puff Daddy became P. Diddy? How lame-o was that? Well, Santogold, a.k.a. Santi White, has decided she is "Santogold" no more. Instead the singer wants to be known as Santigold (emphasis on the "i"). Why you ask? Her PR peeps offer this explanation: "She's not telling you why, that's just how it is. No unpronounceable symbol, no numbers where they shouldn't be, no random capitalization, just plain ass Santigold so remember that." 'Nuff said!

During the first scene of the Broadway play The American Plan, Kieran Campion -- the all-American cutie with a smile begging to be cast in a Colgate commercial -- climbs out of the water dripping wet with only a pair of swim trunks on. Who says there’s nothing for the younger generation on Broadway these days -- great abs are for all ages! And the sexual undertones don't stop there, (The play is after all written by Take Me Out book writer Richard Greenberg) but you'll have to see it for the rest of the action.

Set in the early 1960s, The American Plan is one of my favorite plays I've seen this season. I loved the cast, which also includes Mercedes Ruehl as a shrewd German-Jewish mother, and the set design -- which I usually don't go crazy for -- by Jonathan Fensom really gave the feel of the hazy days and cricket-filled nights of summering in the Catskills. Definitely a giant step up from Manhattan Theater Club’s last production this fall at the Friedman Theatre, the short lived and horribly reviewed, To Be or Not to Be.

An old pro (American Plan being his fourth Broadway show), Kieran took some time out before a show to chat with me about his lovely-sounding wife (sigh), their dog and his starving artist days.

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Last night J.C. Penney threw a cocktail-party-cum-runway-show "Style Your Spring,'' held at Espace. J.C. Penney took a giant step in the cool department by adding Charlotte Ronson, Allen B, Bisou Bisou, Nicole Miller and Fabulousity to their designer roster. A highlight for us was catching Fabulousity designer Kimora Lee Kimmons arriving with her baby-to-be's daddy, actor Djimon Hounsou, clad in mink-trimmed sandals! Other treats of the evening: giant martinis, baby lamb chops and a bejeweled flower bouquet goody bag.

In a follow-up to the Shepard Fairey arrested in Boston story, Marc Schiller at the Wooster Collective has an eyewitness account that explains the beef between the Boston police and Mayor Thomas Menino. Shepard was but a pawn in a game that could have led to disastrous results if cooler heads hadn't prevailed. Here's what eyewitness Dave Combs of Peel magazine has to report:

The real story about Shepard Fairey's arrest in Boston Friday night is the resulting riot that didn't happen – a riot that the Boston Police Department may have carefully planned to provoke and hoped would happen that evening, but didn't.

On January 2nd, Boston Mayor Thomas Menino proposed a one-year wage freeze for city workers, including the Boston Police Department. The Boston Police Superior Officers Federation agreed to a contract on January 23, but not until after the city dismissed its residency case against West Roxbury Police Sergeant Michael Hanson. In the mix of the deal was an alleged list of more than 25 superior police officers who are living outside the city in violation of their contracts' residency requirements. Through the use of strong-arm tactics, the Mayor got his wage freeze and at least 25 of Boston's Finest got to keep their jobs. The following day, two warrants were issued for Shepard Fairey's arrest.

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In an exciting turn of events, PAPER has teamed up with SONY this Fashion Week to help launch the sleek, sophisticated and positively bite-sized SONY Vaio P Series. Under the direction of PAPER's style team, SONY has clothed a slew of "live mannequins" (who have been posing in various venues throughout the city since Jan. 30) in wares courtesy of Katy Rodriguez, Libertine, Threeasfour, Cushnie et Ochs, Elise Overland and Ben Cho. Said designers have also helped design the windows of SONY's flagship store at 550 Madison Ave., which were unveiled earlier this morning (check out the pics above). Six PAPERMAG bloggers will be deployed to the tents during Fashion Week armed with their cute new Vaios, and there'll be a party in their and the designers' honor tomorrow night. For your very own Vaio (which is a real steal at $900) click here. And be sure to check out the sweet SONY film (shot by PAPER's own Pierce Jackson) featuring music courtesy of one of our favorite new bands The Postelles.

Photos by Pierce Jackson

1. Fischerspooner are releasing their third album, Entertainment, on May 5th. The album includes production by Jeff Saltzman (The Killers) and features vocals by PAPER contributor Ann Magnuson.

2. Canadian fashion label Ports 1961 opened their U.S. flagship store this week at 3 Ninth Avenue between Little West 12th and Gansevoort.

3. Despite the cancellation of the Langerado Festival due to poor ticket sales, the promoters of Coachella tell Billboard that their "sales are strong" and they expect to go "way into profit" this year.

4. One of the original members of The Village People, Victor Willis, is suing the group's latest incarnation. Willis, the original "cop," wants $1 million and asked a judge to stop the "authorized use of his likeness and image."

5. Housing Works is opening a new outlet in Tribeca at 72 Warren Street (between West Broadway and Greenwich Street) on February 24.

6. He's back in a New York groove!! DJ AM is spinning at designer Alvin Valley's after-party at M2 (530 W. 28th St.) on Thursday, February 12.

Turns out California brands are good for more than just cotton tees and velour pants. Case in point: Enza Costa ROGUE. The budding label, which is based strictly on cashmere and luxurious silk jersey manages to do impossible -- echoing California's signature laid back vibe yet infusing a shot of New York City's sophisticated chic. Stand-out pieces include biased cut cashmere tunics, delightfully sheer silk jersey tanks, and cashmere booty shorts -- yes, cashmere booty shorts. It's already found a cult following on both coasts and has won a brand new fan in me. This label is so special that it wasn't enough to highlight it, I had to catch up with Enza Costa, the brand's designer and namesake to discuss the line.

The clothes are beautiful -- what is your design philosophy in general?
The guiding principle is the female form. In general, silhouettes; a dance of seduction with how we wear our clothes, complimenting women's beauty and enhancing physical attributes. An outer layer of an inner expression bringing to the fore front the power and potency of the woman, healing deep insecure places.

What is the design process like for you?
The process for me is like being in the space between thoughts -- being led by creation coming into fruition.

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Call Cutta in a Box is a one-person-at-a-time experience that was a big hit at the recent Under The Radar festival. I tried it myself, and found it arresting, informative and totally unique. I don’t want to describe much, because part of its charm is in the unknown. You enter a spacious, well-appointed room in an uptown Fifth Avenue building. The phone rings; you pick it up and begin talking to a call center agent in Calcutta, India. For the next 45 minutes, whatever transpires is for you only. There are a certain amount of set pieces and surprises, with a computer and other props, but otherwise, it’s a back-and-forth transcontinental phone call with someone you most likely would have never met. The concept came from Rimini Protokoll and it's a collaboration of three men: Helgard Haug, Stefan Kaegi, and Daniel Wetzel. I communicated by email with Stefan Kaegi.

So Stefan, this is advertised as “theater." Do you consider this a “play”?
We like stretching the boundaries of what theater can be. But we still like calling it theater, because it has roles, rules, script, and it happens live between people. But obviously it is not only theater; it can be a game, a flirt, a serious conversation, or just a meeting where the two of you never really meet.

Where is the dramatic action?
None of our plays are based on the idea of “dramatic tension," in the sense of an action movie. We believe cinema is better at making you thrill. But we had people who reported a very human identification process happening during the play, which is something which Aristophones and Schiller both wanted to happen in theater. It might be very different from when you are in a passive way following the words of an actor who pretends to be somebody else. You don’t just watch the show, you also hear and (later) see how it is done behind the stage

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Founded in 1996 by artist Peter Halley, Index magazine was ahead of its time. Not only because it featured work by emerging artists, photographers and actors -- like Terry Richardson, Ryan McGinley and Kate Winslet -- but also because it had the foresight to close its print version several years ago before everyone jumped on the bandwagon. While it was one of the few magazines to hold my interest, it remained but a faint memory until recent news of its resuscitation online as indexmagazine.com . A deft combination of archived stories from its glorious past as well as lots of new stuff -- like an interview with Wilco's Nels Cline -- Index also features new videos. One that has become a guilty pleasure of mine is a serial called Delusional Downtown Divas directed by and also starring Lena Dunham. Give it a few minutes of your time and might become a GP of yours as well.

What do Gareth Pugh, Henry Holland, Pam Hog and Nova Dando all have in common? Super fashion PR maven Mandi Lennard. The It-Brit (routinely mentioned as one of London fashion's most powerful players) has managed their careers from fashion newbies to industry darlings. It turns out, though, Lennard has a knack for something else besides spotting stellar talents: nail extentions! For years she's been addicted to over-long, over-the-top press-ons, the brighter the better. She's taken her addiction international, routinely jetting between New York's Lower East Side and London's East End to get her tips topped. I pulled Mandi aside recently for a brief chat to discuss.

So when exactly did you start getting your nails did?
Eight years ago

In that time what's been your absolute favorite design?
Def the marbling they do at Creative Nail in the Lower East Side. They combine colors you wouldn't think of such as yellow and white just like the top of a Mr Kipling cake. I'm trying to train them to do it at the bar I go to on Mile End Road in London but they ain't cracked it yet.

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Out this week on DVD is a nifty medical thriller called Red Mist by the director of Shrooms, Paddy Breathnach. It’s about a weird creepy janitor at a hospital named Kenneth (Andrew Lee Potts), called “Freakdog” by the medical students. One night at a bar they play a mean trick on “Freakdog” which lands him in a coma. Only one girl Catherine (Arielle Kebbel) has any compassion or guilt over the incident and sneaks into his hospital room and shoots him up with experimental drugs -- which unfortunately bring Kenneth to an out-of-body state where he wreaks havoc on those responsible. The cool ways in which he dispatches the bad students are pretty wild and gory and fun. Go, Freakdog, go!

Full disclosure: the SportShu debuts in April. But by the time you finish reading this, you'll understand why you are better off knowing about it now. The Shu first debuted on the market sixty-odd years ago. Back then it was a bestseller, loved by athletes for its comfortable, sturdy sole. Today, Sneaker Stans and fashionistas alike are bound to love it for the same reason and more. The shoe, which was re-designed and is being manufactured exclusively in Japan uses premium grade vintage leather and canvas. It's available in two colors: original black and natural leather, both of which feature retro-style contrast stitching. But what really makes this trainer lust-worthy -- at least for me -- is its exclusivity: Only 500 pairs in each color way will be produced and sold. So there you have it. I've given you fair warning and a head start. The SportsShu retails for $180. Log on now to www.pfflyers.com for details on where and when to pre-order. Stat!

This is Charly Beil, a fresh-faced 21-year-old intern at Endeavor and NYU film student in NYC whose style cannot be called "geek chic" because Charly is the real deal. Unlike being referred to as a "hot mess," a "hot nerd" is a major compliment and should be worn as a badge of honor: Nerd style is the new yuppie chic.

I spotted Charley while dining out with Chloe Domont (a future director, plus the ultimate gamine) and a group of very-early-20-something (I call this generation the Obamination) NYU film students and one Harvard genius at Joe's Shanghai in Chinatown. Even with all the actor/director types sitting around, it was Charley who was the real character at the table. His nerdy persona was so convincing that it was as if Mommy flies in from Los Angeles (his hometown) every morning just to comb his hair and pick up his underwear off his bedroom floor. But if you're truly examining young Mr. Beil’s look it's actually more Beatnik With a Brain with a pinch of '80s New Wave than a pale Urkel with pink full lips. His predictable (yet trendy) eyewear (from Paul Smith) may reflect the mood of the late Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent himself, but on Charley they scream “according to my calculations" -- very geek with glee (Nutty Professor) meets style personified (Buddy Love). Though he may seem like any super dork character in your run of the mill teen movie, Charley is the kid who knows how to create fun wherever he is he and with whomever he's around. What’s refreshing (and disturbingly sexy) about him is his sincerity.

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Current obsession: The neatly tailored look of Craig Robinson's Fall/Winter 2009 collection. Robinson (not be confused with the actor from The Office) recently had several pieces featured in an exhibit at London's Victoria and Albert Museum. Check out that tux jacket... And that cavalry car coat, not to mention the hot leather jacket worn by an equally hot model!! Hotness factor overload! Nothing's sexier on a man than a chic, tailored, cool look.

XxPJC

1. The Museum of Modern Art is opening an annex in a subway station. Starting tomorrow, February 10, the museum will debut MoMA Atlantic/Pacific in the subway station at Atlantic Avenue and Pacific Street in downtown Brooklyn. The temporary "museum" is open 24/7 until March 15.

2. Here's a photo of the TVCC Tower (foreground) in Beijing that was destroyed in a huge fire yesterday. The tower and the building behind it were designed by famed architect Rem Koolhaas.

3. The Hartford Courant covers the Grammys: "The duo from Wesleyan MGMT won a Grammy for best remix: or rather it went to Justice for his (sic) version of "Electric Feel."

4. Miami New Times observes that "hipster promoters" have taken over South Beach and that "bottle service is going the way of the dinosaur."

5. If you're starved for new music, listen to the Treasure Fingers remix of "I Left My Heart in Tokyo" by Mini Viva here.

6. National Geographic reports that researchers have discovered what might be the oldest human hair in a fossil of hyena poop.

Photo of Subway station from Flickr

WHO: Bob DeLaat & Digger the Dog
AGE: 23
OCCUPATION: Pro-BMX bike rider/all-around cyclist; manager, Ray's Indoor MTB/BMX Park.
HOMETOWN: Cleveland, Ohio
SHOT IN: Cleveland, Ohio
FAVORITE CLEVELAND HANG SPOT: Melt Bar and Grilled -- they have grilled cheese sandwiches bigger than your head! And you can get them deep fried! Oh joy!

WHO: Brian Caine
AGE: 19 going on 40
OCCUPATION: I am currently starting at The Invasion Agency, an amazing booking agency out of Ceveland, Ohio but do tours nationwide. I’m also a recording engineer looking for work!!!
HOME: PAINseville Ohio, Its quite the exciting town.... HA
SHOT IN: Cleveland, Ohio
FAVORITE CLEVELAND HANG SPOT: A little bar called The Highwater by the lake -- small, not a lot of people, but a pool table and great wings so it's perfect for me!

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It's easy to hate on the Avalon Chrystie complex, that faux-fancy architectural bust at the corner of Bowery and Houston Street. Nevertheless, we've got nothin' but love for Loris Diran and his first flagship boutique, opening there today. The men's bespoke and women's high-end collections are transcendent. Inspired by the mod fashion and fitted aesthetic of the early 1960s, the menswear is a fresh take on classic looks: an expertly cut black sports jacket, tapered slim buttondowns, flat-front pants in skinny or stove-pipe fits. Hand-tailored cashmere suits are at the high end of a collection that offers wardrobe fundamentals with superb subtle detailing.

Women's separates in gunmetal gray, black, deep raisin, cream and bursts of rich magenta complement the array of natural-colored menswear. Chiffon print blouses can be paired with straight leg pants for work or with a thick silk bubble skirt for something more fun. The colors and cuts project a strong, chic femininity –- not super girly, not overtly sexy, not too conservative. Loris Diran gets it just right.

Outfitted with furniture from the '60s and a custom-made Venetian glass and cast medal chandelier, the 1000-square-foot boutique balances modernism with softer design touches. Yes, it's crazy that the Bowery is more Saville Row than Skid Row these days, but a spirited designer with such a true sense of craftsmanship is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

Loris Diran
3 E. 1st St.
www.lorisdiran.com
(212) 420-1141

Photos by Rebecca Prusinowski

Out this week on DVD is Obscene, an exceptionally fine documentary by Neil Ortenberg and Daniel O’Connor which is a portrait of Barney Rossett, the founding publisher of Grove Press and The Evergreen Review. Grove Press tirelessly went to court to defend the right to publish such banned books as Lady Chatterly’s Lover, Tropic Of Cancer and Naked Lunch, and these wins led the way for John Rechy (City Of Night), Hubert Selby Jr. (Last Exit To Brooklyn) and the works of the Marquis De Sade. Rossett is a colorful character who fought for things he loved, and we should all be eternally grateful. It’s easy to forget that it wasn’t too long ago that book sellers were getting arrested for putting Henry Miller on their shelves. The evolution of the press, the stories about bomb threats, raids by feminist groups, the controversy over releasing the Swedish film I Am Curious, Yellow, and bouts of government surveillance all make this film a fascinating wild ride.

By now you may have heard that street artist Shepard Fairey, the same one being sued for his appropriation of an AP photo for his iconic Obama "Hope" poster, was arrested in Boston the other night on his way to a retrospective of his work opening at the ICA. Here is PAPER senior editor Carlo McCromick's report:

Shepard Fairey was arrested driving with his wife and kids on the way to his big museum opening Friday night. He was in Boston for two weeks -- constant huge media presence up there -- had the private opening for all the hotshots, gave a lecture, the day before was with the mayor unveiling a big banner he made on the side of City Hall, and the cops wait until literally moments before the public opening to grab him, not caught in the act of doing anything wrong but for work of his in boston that he may or may not have put up himself. he gets released at 4 a.m., just enough time to rob the opening of his presence, so they make the museum, the mayor and the entire city look bad, and really disappointed a thousand plus fans who invested a lot of money, effort and love to be there there. Is it any wonder we all hate that town so fucking much?

photo via atinycity

The Grammys last night were actually pretty fun! Notable moments included Justin Timberlake's duet with T.I.; Radiohead performing with the marching band; Katy Perry descending from the ceiling atop a banana; Stevie Wonder singing with the Jonas Brothers (!!); even Miley Cyrus and Taylor Swift's little ballad was sort of cute. In any case, the highlight of the evening for us was definitely the "Rap Pack" (T.I., Lil Wayne, Jay-Z, Kanye West and an about-to-pop M.I.A.) doing "Swagga Like Us." Check it.