A Quick Chit-Chat With Lulu Frost Jewelry Designer Lisa Salzer

Lisa Salzer, jewelry designer of the treasured vintage-inspired Lulu Frost collection, is a visionary in her field, with one of the most buoyant environmental visions on the luxe-market. Conceived during her senior year at Dartmouth, her haute handcrafted "recycled" jewelry is entirely made from unearthed antiques –- think 1860's cut-steel shoe buckles, epoch keys consigned to oblivion, distinctive period chains, grandfatherly pocketwatches bereft of their hands –- and other rare, witty jujus delicately transformed into thoroughly modern bijoux.

How has your grandmother Elizabeth Frost's legacy influenced your work?
Memories of weekends while growing up in my grandmother's estate jewelry store in New Hope, PA fill my mind and inspire me to design. I recall my first job at age five assisting her in putting all the mondo diamond and sapphire baubles away into the safes at night. They were too gorgeous and I spent many a weekend peering into the cases picking out my favorites. The legacy of Elizabeth's classic ladylike English style keep me focused and inspired to live gracefully and with dignity in everything I choose to do.

Most Lulu Frost jewelry pieces boast several concurrent historical references; are there any eras/periods in particular that you feel superlatively compliment each other?
I love the idea of modernizing vintage by juxtaposing disparate time periods together to create a sense of timelessness. I have a deep and profound draw to Victorian EVERYTHING -– I love the dark, introspective nature and symbolism of Victorian jewelry. For me, mixing such sentimental and romantic pieces with more geometric modern parts creates an interesting commentary on the cold place our society is in now and how we still must rely on tradition and our past if we are to move forward.

The Lulu Frost brand has been extending operations as of late –- diversifying with the fine Victorian-influenced collection, L. Frost, as well as with a lower-pricepoint charm-based line, Secret Garden by Lulu Frost (at Urban Outfitters) –- what sparked your drive to branch out?
Very true! We are diversifying for the sheer joy of it -– I love the chance to approach all markets in order to have multiple audiences be able to appreciate and experience my design vision. In addition, I'm an obsessive "learner," so the chance to work on both mass production Urban Outfitters and apprentice with some of the finest craftsmen in tiny rooms on 47th street in New York City are wonderful opportunities for my growth as a person and designer.

Lately you have been taking Japan by storm! Why do you think the Lulu Frost aesthetic has been such a hit in the Japanese niche marketplace?
I couldn't live without Japan! I adore the people, the fearless fashion and their receptiveness to my vintage-meets-modern jewelry. I believe that the Japanese culture itself is a mash-up of tradition and extreme modernity, so I think that people there can easily appreciate and grasp my aesthetic which collages time together.

Can you tell us a bit about your men's collection? What originally prompted you to create a line catered towards the gents and how is it parallel to your signature women's collection?
I've been working on my men's line, Johnny Frost, in the Japanese market for several years now. We sell these fantastically outlandish wallet chains, blazer pins, scarf rings and key chains for stores like Tomorrowland, Ships and Takashimaya. I can't wait to create a more streamlined version of my men's collection for the American market which focuses on classics –- such as cufflinks, preppy belts and tie bars to subtly enhance a man's style with a vintage edge.

As the "Queen of Jewelry Collaborations" (having hitherto joined forces with DKNY for the 20th anniversary collection, as well as partnerships with Chris Benz, Jay Bulger, and Alexander Wang), who would be your dream designer with whom you'd like to join forces?
What a flattering moniker! I happily accept. I am really in love with Magda Berliner's work and we did in fact do a mini-collaboration a few years ago, weaving Lulu Frost necklaces into her classic vintage lace dresses. The absolute ultimate for me would be to work with the genius Alber Elbaz of Lanvin... my obsession with him, his work and the history of Lanvin knows no bounds. They already have a superb jewelry design team in place, but what a dream it would be for me to do absolutely anything in conjunction with the Lanvin world.

How do you protect your own exquisite collection of jewelry while traveling abroad?
I have a favorite method which is simple -- I recommend it to anyone who travels! Use simple kitchen sandwich bags and place the jewelry half into the bag, leaving the top part of a necklace, for example, hanging out of the top. Place this whole shebang into a second plastic bag and seal it up. No tangles upon arrival in exotic locale! Just perfectly kept jewels. With earrings, place the earrings into the bag, pierce the plastic bag with the ear-wire and seal the bag.

Who are your favorite fictional heroes?
I'll interpret the question in a bit of a different way -– Miss Lesley M.M. Blume, my dear friend and writer of fiction -– who is one of my true heroines.

What makes you laugh uncontrollably?
My boyfriend Billy. What a joy!

What is your favorite winter fragrance/perfume?
For winter, I always wear Lanvin's Rumeur. In spring and summer, it's Jo Malone's Orange Blossom.